Offset Overhand

The Offset Overhand is often referred to as the EDK (European Death Knot) in the US. Despite its ominous nickname, this simple knot has been used successfully by many climbers in the US and around the world to join two ropes together for rappelling. This knot offsets to one side of the rope, leaving a flat side that's less likely to snag on obstacles and getting stuck when pulling the rope. This is an advantage over a more symmetrical knot in areas with very featured rock. The disadvantage of offset overhand is that it can roll (or invert) under a very heavy load (typically over 1000 lbf), even if tied and dressed correctly. If tied loosely, it can roll with just a few hundred pounds of force applied. Coupled with short tails, this knot can fail by rolling off the end of the rope. So when using this knot, it is critical to tie it correctly, dress it well, and leave long tails (a conservative recommendation is 10 inches or more). Some climbers choose to tie a backup knot (often a second overhand knot with one or both strands) behind the offset overhand to prevent it from rolling. Others choose to use a different knot instead, for example: the double fishermans knot.

Tie an overhand knot with both ropes together, tails pointing in the same direction.

Pull the knot tight, then dress the knot by pulling on each of the four individual strands.

The finished offset overhand. Notice the long tails.

When used for rappelling, the flat side of the knot is less likely to get snagged.

Related Pages

• Knots