Multipitch

J-Crack Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO

Definition

A climb with more than one Pitch.

Is multipitch climbing more dangerous than single pitch?

Yes. Multipitch climbing is more 'committing' than single pitch climbing. If you want to stop climbing, you can't simply have your partner lower you. If someone gets hurt you still need to rappel down. If a storm hits, you are still on the mountain and need to get off in the rain, lightning and hail.

To keep safe 'be prepared'. Bring all the necessary gear. Understand how self rescue works. Do not expect rescue. Let people know what your plans are and when to start looking for you (or call a rescue team). Always bring a head lamp.

The other major hazard when multipitch climbing are parties above you. Rock Fall is real and extremely dangerous. Brain buckets (Helmets) are essential. Alpine routes tend to be particularly loose due to the high amount of moisture (freezing / thawing).

Is multipitch climbing complex?

This articles presumes you are a solid, experienced single pitch climber with experience setting up multi-directional anchors in various situations.

The techniques required to ascend a multi-pitch climb as a party of two are not complex if everything goes right (weather, injuries etc.). The techniques required to escape a potential epic while one thousand feet up a face can be very complex.

Climbing has a fast learning curve. Find an experienced multi-pitch climber to climb with if possible. A good way to learn multipitch climbing is to learn on short (2-4 pitch) sport climbs. When you are on multi-pitch sport climbs the complexity of building anchors is reduced and bailing is very simple (and cheap).

If you need to bail part way up a sport pitch you will need to leave a 'leaver biner' (do not thread your rope directly through a 3/8th bolt; this causes core damage). To minimize cost you can use a non-locker and place a piece of tape around the gate prohibiting it from opening.

What do I need?

This list presumes you are climbing a 3-10 pitch climb and you are not planning on bevying (sleeping on the side of the mountain).

The most important things you need:

- motivation, desire and love of the mountains.

- a reliable, experienced partner who is capable of getting you off the face if you are knocked out or severely injured.

- self-rescue knowledge

Things that might help:

- helmet, rain jacket, head lamp

- food, water, first aid equipment

- harness, shoes, rope, belay / rappel device.

- second rope may be needed for rappel purposes. Many parties use thin static ropes to cut weight

- two 20ft cordlettes are popular for setting up equalized anchors. Four lockers (two for each anchor)

- enough gear to have an anchor below you, protect an entire pitch then setup an anchor above you

- two daisy chains (or another solution) and lockers to connect directly to anchor.

- plenty of extendable runners.

- Portaledge (if the climb takes multiple days)

How many belay devices do I need?

The short answer is one. Make sure it suitable for belaying and rappelling.

What happens if I drop my belay device? Well you are experienced using the Munter Hitch so you will be fine.

If you have a tendency of dropping stuff you could bring a second belay device. Many climbers choose to bring a backup and they do not weigh much.

Which belay device is the best for multipitch climbing?

Though climbers love to debate about this in reality this is a matter of personal preference. All belay devices on the market are safe if the user knows how to use them.

The petzl reverso wins my vote for multi-pitch climbing due to the following features: - emergency ascender (keyword though is 'emergency'. It is very physically taxing if you need to use it.) - auto-lock belay device (though know how to disable this feature in case your partner needs to be lowered. The manual explains how to do this.).

I am a big fan of the simple ATC by black diamond. It works and that's all that I ask.

I do not recommend figure eights because the rope will be twisted (while rappelling).

Which shoes are the best for multipitch climbing?

Climbing shoes are personal preference. Make sure you can wear them for the duration of the climb. Climbing shoes are not designed for comfort so don't expect them to feel like your sandals. Sharp, deep pain leaving blisters is not required though. Generally people are not climbing at the pinnacle of their ability when doing multipitch climbing so super tight shoes are not required.

Will I lose gear if I bail?

Bailing is when you retreat a climb without summitting. If a storm moves in (or other circumstances), bailing is often the best option. Bailing techniques are unique to every situation. Some routes have fixed anchors every pitch, permitting you to rappel down without losing any gear. Other routes (especially alpine routes) do not have fixed anchors. Either you will have to find a large rock to sling or leave gear at every half a rope length.

If fixed anchors are not available check the weather and learn how to place passive protection so if you need to bail you can minimize cost.

I want to climb alone (solo climb)?

Rope Soloing

I want to climb in a party of 2 people?

This is the most efficient choice. Only one rope is required (though many climbs will require two ropes to rappel or bail so make sure you have good beta if you choose to carry only one rope). This technique is very similar to single pitch climbing.

1. Leader climbs and sets up an anchor.

2. 2nd climbs, cleans the protection and joins the leader at the anchor.

3. All available gear is given to the new leader.

4. Leader climbs next pitch.

5. 2nd cleans (dismantles) bottom anchor and climbs to meet the leader.

The process is repeated. Being efficient at this is a science by itself and takes practice.

I want to climb in a party of 3 people?

This is not a problem. The easiest way of multipitch climbing with three people is using two full strength climbing ropes.

1. The leader climbs with one rope attached to her and sets up an anchor where she belays up the 2nd.

2. 2nd has two ropes attached to her. Both ropes are attached (like normal) through the tie in point. One rope (like normal) goes to the leader who belays the 2nd. The other rope hangs below the second (the end of this rope is attached to the 3rd; This rope is not used to protect the 2nd).

3. After the 2nd reaches the anchor the 2nd puts the 3rd on belay. The leader arranges the gear / rope for the next lead while the 2nd is belaying the 3rd.

This process is repeated every pitch. Expect to take about 60% longer than a party of two.

Either the 2nd or the 3rd can clean the protection. If the route wanders or traverses have the 2nd leave the protection in. The 2nd will obviously have to unclip the rope (going from her to the leader) from the protection but should clip the rope going to the 3rd into the protection (protecting the 3rd from massive pendulums).

I want to climb in a party of 4 or more people?

This would be incredibly slow plus many belay ledges are tight enough with three people. Split your party into sets of two or three people.

Organizing gear / rope

After leading and building your anchor pull up all excess rope prior to putting your partner on belay. This is considerably faster than pulling all the excessive rope through your belay device.

If you are on a hanging belay or small ledge, flake the rope over one of your feet or a piece of webbing connected from you to the anchor. If you are on a large ledge try to stack the rope in a manner so that it will not get tangled on the next lead.

Flaking the rope over one of your feet has an advantage if you are going to lead the next pitch as well. After your partner reaches the next pitch simply 'flip' the rope from your foot onto your partner's foot. This will place your end of the rope on top minimizing tangles in your ropes.

If the rope is stacked on a ledge (making it difficult to 'flip') and the same person is going to lead again (therefore their end of the rope is on bottom) it is often easier for both climbers to untie and switch ends. You both want to be attached to the anchor prior to doing this.

The second should attempt to collect the gear in an organized manner when cleaning the pitch. This will simplify the gear transfer (the next leader needs to receive all the gear prior to leading the next pitch).

Switching leads

Switching leads means that you lead the first pitch, your partner leads the second, you lead the third and so on. Presuming both climbers are solid climbers switching leads is generally the fastest. The second will have most of the gear by the time they reach the anchor therefore minimizing the transfer of gear. Also the leader will naturally collect the rope (when belaying the second) in a manner that will place the seconds rope on top.

In a party of three it is easiest if you put your weakest climber in the middle. The first and third climbers switch leads.

Linking Pitches

Many areas design pitches to be smaller than 1/2 a rope length (due to single rope rappelling requirements). This allows you to climb two pitches in one push which saves time (fewer anchor setups, less excess rope to pull up etc.). Climbing two pitches at a time is known as 'Linking Pitches'.

The downside to linking pitches include: - rope drag ('rope drag' refers to the amount of friction the rope has on the rock and protection making it difficult to pull) - communication (winds and distance make it difficult to hear your partner)

To avoid rope drag do not link pitches that traverse or wander.

Communication

It is common to not be able to hear your partner even when separated by only one pitch. Winds can make talking to your partner impossible even when they are only ten feet away. Rock formations can make it impossible to hear your partner, who is one pitch below, but allow you to hear people watching you 600 feet below.

Always decide on a form of communication to notify your partner that they are on belay. A popular form of communication is five hard pulls indicates that your partner is on belay (than keep a taught belay to gain your partners confidence). Light weight, short range radios are becoming popular especially for alpine routes (extreme wind conditions). Though if you are planning to use these in a national park do not expect to have an empty channel to talk on.

How do I get down?

Read your guidebook carefully. Do not presume there is an easy or even safe way down. Do not presume that you can get down with only one rope.

If you are on a sport multi-pitch climb often the easiest way down is to rappel the route you have climbed. Some sport multipitch climbs that wander will have a separate 'direct' rappel route. Descending a multipitch trad route involves anything from rappelling off trees and slings, hiking, down climbing and scrambling. Some climbers have even used base jumping as a speedy form of descent.

Rappelling

Rappelling Danger

Find the middle of your Rope

Find The Middle Of Your Rope

Self Rescue

Self Rescue is a complex but vital skill. Read more about Self Rescue

Related Pages

• Answers to Rock Climbing Questions
• Belay Device
• Big Wall
• Climbing Anchor
• Climbing Grades
• Daisy Chain
• Hans Florine - Fastest Solo Ascent of El Capitan - Speed Climbing
• Haul Systems
• Magic Ed - Editor of the El Potrero Chico guidebook
• Pitch
• Rappel
• Rock Climbing
• Route
• SRT
• Salathe Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite July 2006
• Topo