Background
On July 30th 2005 Hans Florine completed a solo ascent of The Nose of El
Capitan in 11 hours and 41 minutes. El Capitan is traditionally done by a
strong party of two climbers in three to five days. Solo ascents are
characterized by climbing by yourself and require one person to do all the
work.
The Nose is 2900 ft long and features over 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed
climbing. Hans Florine is a speed climber who has also done Half Dome and
El Capitan in a day and climbed 'The Nose' in 2 hours 48 minutes 50 seconds
with Yuji Hirayama which is the fastest time in history.
For more information visit Hans Florine's personal website at
hansflorine.com. Hans
Florine has also written a book 'Speed
Climbing' published by Falcon books.
Interview - 10 Questions with Hans Florine
Mark:
- El Capitan is one of many mountains in the world. Why do you choose to focus so much of your time on this mountain?
Hans:
- Easy access. The only thing better than climbing, is LOTS of climbing, hard to beat El Cap for that.
- Mark
-
- What are the primary aspects of solo climbing that you find increase the difficulty both mentally and physically (compared to climbing with a partner)?
Hans:
- Hmm. Mentally I'd say that things are dead even, in that you don't have someone to raise your spirits, but you also don't have another person who may lower your spirits or may bonk, - which the later two are out of your control.
Physically you are working ALL THE TIME, so you get more activity during your time out, however you do push a little harder when your with a partner. I do not make decisions based on worse case scenarios, so that a statement like: "you have no one to save you should you get hurt." does not figure in to solo climbing being difficult. Solo accidents are difficult, but all accidents are difficult.
Mark:
- Many climbers consider what you do as particularly dangerous (compared to climbing with a partner at a 'normal' speed). What is your view on this?
Hans:
Speed requires focus. Focus makes you more aware of what you are doing. Less time on the rock is less time in the danger zone. Watch any video you can of me speed climbing on natural rock and you will see that I/we are NOT movingly sloppily, we are moving effectively, most of all we are MOVING. We are NOT: chatting, dottling, being indecisive, trying five times to pick the right size piece to put in, route finding, or doing anything that is inefficient. I am not insulting or bagging on normal pace climbers, but picture belaying someone on a pitch for one or commonly two or more hours for a single pitch. - YOU GET BORED, you look around at the sky, you adjust your shirt, you pull out a sandwich, you rub your sore neck, you adjust your harness that is cutting off your circulation, you take your belay/brake hand off brief moments. - None of that happens when someone is climbing a pitch in 6 minutes, which is how long on average it took Yuji and I to climb pitches when we set the record.
Mark:
- Considering you stopped to help another party and brought them water it seems like you could have gone even faster. Do you plan to repeat this speed ascent with the intention of beating your time?
Hans:
- I generally do not get on a route for the record if I have the record on it.
Mark:
- Physically was your ascent with Hirayama or your solo ascent more challenging? Are they comparable?
Hans:
- I was far more exhausted from the solo effort. Short and long term.
Mark:
- If you were going to give parties seeking to climb faster on multipitch Trad routes one piece of advice what would it be?
Hans:
- The upper party has "dibs", let them know that you are empowering them with the right to give you passage or not. When you concede their power to them they will always appreciate it and nothing can give you better negotiating skills than them appreciating your respect for their position.
- Mark
-
- Are there any climbing / non-climbing goals which you plan to pursue in the near future?
- Hans
-
- MANY. Climb peaks in Sierras, climb routes on El Cap I haven't climbed, climb something(s) fast in the Dolomites, and in other "non US areas". Being incredible on stage as a professional speaker.
Mark:
- There are concerns about access issues in Yosemite. What do you believe is going to be the largest challenge for the climbing community concerning Yosemite over the next five years?
Hans:
- I don't think there will be any major concerns the next five years. There is too much rock. If there is a line on the route you want to do, simply walk another ten minutes away from your car door.
Mark:
- What is the most memorable epic you have had on rock?
Hans:
- First I've been either fortunate, fast, or safety conscious, and have had no serious encounters. But in Patagonia I fell/slid some 40 ft when an anchor blew. I came out of it with only a broken thumb. Memorable was the vodka to kill the pain and only a $35 hospital bill.
Mark:
- Anything else you feel like saying to the climbing community?
Hans:
- Recognize the good efforts others put in. If you do not enjoy the style that others climb in don't go on and on about it, it's boring and makes you look bad. There is one thing you have that no one can take from you, BUT you can give it away, - your integrity. That's an absolute.
See Also
Climbing Trip Reports
Photographs are copyrighted by Hans Florine
