Enchanted Rock, TX Rock Climbing

Enchanted Rock

General Information

Enchanted Rock offers the best Trad climbing in central Texas. 'ERock' (Enchanted Rock) is a large state park with years of climbing available. The park is best known for its beautiful, long, sustained cracks. Enchanted Rock also includes a large selection of bolted slab climbing (go to the backside of the main dome) many of which are two to three pitches in length. There are also a small selection of bolted face climbs (go to Turkey's Peak).

The nature of Enchanted Rock cracks normally permits you to add protection at any time and as often as you want (though there are also a wide selection of bold climbs for those who seek them). A good rack for Enchanted Rock would include medium to small cams with a set of nuts and a gallon of water. There are many great climbs that require large gear (i.e. 'fear of flying') to lead but can be top roped (TR) with medium sized pro (if you are on a budget for your trad rack). Enchanted Rock also includes an extensive selection of boulder problems.

The following map is a trail map of the park: http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/enchantd/erocfac.pdf .

One of the easiest places to find is 'Echo Canyon' (select link for more information). Numerous bolted top ropes and easy to intermediate trad climbs are available here. The approach takes about 15-20 minutes.

The weather is generally warm to hot. The summer temperatures can become extreme (over 100 degrees) so you should consider climbing in the morning.

Recommended Climbs

Top Choice - 5.10 - Carnivore Boulders - Trad - Classic crack - good jams to exciting top.

High Octane - 5.11a - Carnivore Boulders - Trad - Thin finger crack.

Pumper #9 - 5.9+ - Lizardhead Boulders - Trad - Hand jams

Cave Crack - 5.6 - Orange Peel Area - Trad - Easy climbing - Climb Jack knife and then rap down the backside to find cave crack.

Owl Crack - 5.9 - Triple Cracks Area - Trad - Small to medium gear to lip then a few small nuts to protect long flake (easy) climbing. Bring large loops of webbing to loop huge, obvious flake.

Middle Crack - 5.8 - Triple Cracks Area - Trad

Motorboat - 5.9 - Orange Peel Area - Trad - You can setup a top rope on this one fairly easily (large boulder above climb). Chimney climbing.

Sweat - 5.6 - News Wall - Trad - Excellent climb

Mark of the Beast - 5.6 - Devil's Slide - Bolted - Can be extended up to a three pitch (5.8) climb to the top of main dome.

Eat - 5.10a - Southwest Wall - Trad

P.G. 13 - 5.10b - Southwest Wall - Trad Fear of Flying - 5.10 - East Face - Trad - Must do. Awesome lie back for over 40 feet. Longest crack in the park. If you plan to lead it bring multiple number 5 (or is it 6 now) camalots or huge big bros. Otherwise hike around the backside to setup a TR.

Little Feet - 5.9+ - East Face - Trad - Small crack with good jams.

Directions

The park is 18 miles north of Fredericksburg on Ranch Road 965, or from Llano, take State Highway 16 for 14 miles south and then go west on Ranch Road 965. If you are coming from the South you will arrive to Fredericksburg on 87. You will come to an intersection with 290 (subway on right, gas station on left). Take a left. Continue till you see a brown sign for Enchanted Rock instructing you to turn right (onto Ranch Road 965). Continue until you see the Enchanted Rock entrance on your left (large sign). If you are arriving late you can fill out a payment form at the ranger station (directly to your right after entering the park).

From the ranger station continue straight (for ten feet) then take a left at the T-junction. Continue straight over the bridge (do not take left into parking area next to ranger station). Take a right at T-junction (left for showers and carnivore bouldering area). Continue till you come to round about. You will see a pavilion which has a telescope (on left). This is where the summit trail starts. Grab a parking spot and return to this location.

Food

Looking for some German style food and beer? Go to the Biergarten (Fredericksburg Brewing Company) in Fredericksburg. This is found on 290 between 87 and 965.

Camping

Both primitive and non-primitive camping areas are available. Non-primitive camping map is available at http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/enchantd/eroctentarea.pdf . $5 / day access fee for the park. $10 / day non-primitive camping (including hot showers) or $8 / day for primitive camping. Closest primitive camping is about 30 minutes from the parking area but are often very close to climbing areas (good for multiple day trips). Fires are permitted in non-primitive sites only.

Gear

Do not forget to bring water. Lots of water. This place becomes extremely hot and will make you sweat allot (bring chalk). Trad rack is a big plus (even if it is minimal because you can setup top ropes). Long pieces of webbing are nice for setting up top ropes.

Topos

A (free) bouldering guide is available at http://www.bloodyflapper.com/main.php (select Enchanted Rock link on right).

- Photographs of climbs at Enchanted Rock are available at http://www.texasclimbers.com/crags/erock/# (select 'E-Rock Web Tool' in the center of the page).

- I recommend the following guidebook. It is not free ($16.95) but will make your life allot easier http://www.erockonline.com/guidebooks.htm

- A route list can be found at http://www.erockonline.com/routes.htm

Events

The granite gripper climbing competition is held every year around October and normally attracts 50 to 100 climbers. There are separate competitions for bouldering and leading / top roping (extra points for leading). Lots of fun, lots of beer and lots of great people.

Groups

Friends of Enchanted Rock's official homepage can be found at http://friendsofenchantedrock.com/

Fees

$5 entrance fee. Camping fee varies and is significantly less if you use primitive sites.

Also View

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• Austin, Texas Rock Climbing
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• Echo Canyon, Enchanted Rock, TX Rock Climbing