Cordlette

An easy way to equalize forces is to use a cord-o-lette (a 20ft piece of cordlette tied in a loop using a double fisherman's knot) or web-o-lette (a 20ft piece of webbing tied in a loop using a water knot). Make sure that the material you use is designed to be used for 'life dependent' purposes (typically this is defined as 7mm or greater cordlette or 1 inch webbing).

Cordlettes are commonly used to build Climbing Anchors.

Image from Rock Climbing by Phil Watts, Human Kinetics, 1996

The image above shows three pieces of protection equalized using a cordlette. A figure eight on a bite should be tied on the cordlette (as shown on the right side of the image). Note that all connections are tight, therefore distributing the force evenly. I recommend using two locking biners at the bottom of the anchor adding redundancy to this part of the anchor.

By tying a figure eight on a bite, you create a redundant, 'no extension' system. Any one part of the cordlette could be cut and the system would still hold. The angles are also close to 20 degrees minimizing forces. The Anchor article explain the forces created by larger angles.

Using the climbing rope

If you do not have cordlettes you can use the climbing rope. First create three pieces of protection. Pull up a few feet of rope and attach yourself directly to the left most piece of protection using a clove hitch (you can start on the right also, just do not start in the middle). Pull up approximately 6 feet and create a large loop from the first piece of protection to the middle piece of protection (attaching the rope to the middle piece of protection using a clove hitch). Pull up another 6 feet of rope and clove hitch another loop from the second piece of protection to the last piece of protection.

Now you have two large loops (see left side of image below). Tie the two loops together using a figure eight on a bite.

Advantages (compared to cordlette)

- Less gear

- More versatile (cordlette is a defined length).

- You are automatically connected directly to the anchor.

Disadvantages (compared to cordlette)

- You require at least fifteen feet of rope (limits the length of the pitch).

- You will have to untie and trade ends of the rope if you plan to lead the next pitch (because your side of the rope is fixed directly to the anchor).

Related Pages

• Accesory Cord
• Building a Rack
• Climbing Anchor
• Climbing Gear
• Double Fishermans
• Escaping The Belay
• Figure Eight on a Bight
• Knots
• Multipitch
• Where Is Your Head At