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Austin, Texas Rock Climbing Reimers Ranch When it comes to Texas, Austin is a good city to be in if you enjoy rock climbing. Austin has numerous sport climbing crags, multiple bouldering areas, close to Enchanted Rock (great trad climbing approximately 1.5 hour drive from Austin) and two rock climbing gyms for those rainy days. Austin also has extensive mountain biking, numerous great rivers and play holes just in case you get tired of the rocks. In Austin expect mainly to be climbing limestone face climbs. Everything from slab face climbs to overhanging pump fests (go visit 'Sex Cave', 'Reimers Ranch') is available in Austin, tx. Austin is very tolerant of new climbers. As long as you can climb 5.7 or above you will have a selection of climbs to choose from. If you are only coming into Austin for the weekend and do not have time for any side trips you will likely just want to leave your trad rack at home (especially if your flying). Locals are friendly so finding a partner is normally no problem. Just drive to one of the following crags with your harness and chalk bag and you will likely have no difficultly obtaining numerous rides on peoples ropes. Locals climb in Austin year round. The summer will be hot so have your chalk ball handy.
Recommended CragsReimers RanchIf you are driving in town for a short period or just getting into the sport I recommend this area. You should definitely not eliminate this area from your list if you are looking to climb hard. Reimers Ranch has over a hundred bolted climbs all of which are cleaned fairly well ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. Route finding is fairly easy here especially if you are willing to ask people where climbs are. DirectionsTexasClimbers provides excellent directions and details regarding the climbing areas. The only thing that isn't mentioned which isn't completely obvious is after you pay at the farmers house yield left to get to the parking area. When you arrive at the parking area you will see a rocky trail on your left just pass the REI sign. Follow this. You will then see a stream bed on your right. Follow the stream down into the canyon. The first wall on your right will be 'Sex Cave' which is a wonderful playground for those who enjoy steep, juggy, pump fests. ToposTexasClimbers is the place to go for Reimers Ranch topos. Cost$7 / day CampingReimers is currently changing into a state park (this information will change). Camping at Reimers Ranch is normally not permitted. The place to camp is Pace Bend park (about 20 minutes from Reimers Ranch). Full details for Pace Bend Park, Austin, tx are found at http://www.co.travis.tx.us/tnr/parks/pace_bend.asp Pace bend park is also an excellent climbing location (discussed below). The trick to camping here is select a camp ground on the west cliffs. They are generally quitter (teens tend to party on the beaches on the east coast). Camping is not cheap though if you are alone ($15 per car regardless of how many people are in it). Other SportsFairly recently Reimers Ranch has become a very popular mountain biking location. Trails ranging from beginner to advanced are available and maintained. Also there is a great swimming hole with a rope swing so get ready to get wet. Great Climbs (these are just a few of them)Lessa the Purramatic 6000 Kity - 5.5 - Dead Cats Wall - Last easy looking climb on the left of Dead Cats Wall. Starts in front of tree. Just ask anyone on dead cats to point it out (there are always tons of climbers here). Zoes Wall - 5.7-5.8 - Three climbs that are good to learn leading on. Before you reach the T-junction (stream into the river) look right (up a slight hill). You will see a short, well bolted wall. Eight Flake - 5.8 - Prototype Wall - best 5.8 at Reimers. Climb the flake up about half of the climb then traverse right and follow another flake until the top. Fun moves. Bolted (though you can climb it trad if you want to). T-Roofic Detour - 5.10d - T-Roofic Wall - Great pumpy moves with roof. Sangre de Muertos - 5.11b - Sex Canyon - Also known as blood of the dead - fun long moves with exciting traverse. Crankenstein - 5.11b / c - Crankenstein Wall - Deceptive. Looks vertical but constantly overhung. Lots of fun. Liposuction - 5.12a - Sex Cave - Climb roof out of cave. Great moves. Good climb if it rains. Jade - 5.12b - House of Pain - Classic, must do. Slightly overhung, slopy goodness. Super Cruiser - 5.13b - Sex Canyon - Popular, hard climbing. Steep.  Pace Bend Pace Bend State ParkAustin's deep water soloing crag. This is a fun place to go if your not in the mood to rope up or it is really hot out and swimming sounds good. Be careful though the water is not always deep enough to be jumping off the highest cliffs (ask rangers about water levels). Moderate to difficult climbing is available up to 40 feet in length leaving plenty of room for some adventurous soloing. To make climbing a tad easier bring an old pair of climbing shoes (so you don't soak your new ones). Great cliff jumping of course. I also recommend bringing a couple of those floating noodles per person so you don't have to constantly paddle when waiting your turn to get on a problem. DirectionsDirections of the area is available at http://www.co.travis.tx.us/tnr/parks/pace_bend.asp. Map of park is available at http://www.co.travis.tx.us/tnr/parks/pdf_files/pacebend.pdf . You can climb at almost any cliff but Thurman's cove is a good start. CostDay Permit are $8 per car. Camping Permit is $15 per car (so pack those people in tight). CampingCamp on the west side of the park (avoid eastern beaches) to avoid parties. Other Sports - Swimming. If you have a boat just paddle / motor your way over to the cliffs and jump in.  Austin Greenbelt Austin's GreenbeltAustin includes multiple areas which are protected as nature areas many of which include climbing. Three well documented walls are listed below. The greenbelt areas are always free. Austin Greenbelt's easy to intermediate climbs tend to be polished due to high traffic. Seismic WallExtremely popular wall. Polished. Lots of one move wonders. A good area for a lunch break or evening climbing. Great for those climbing 5.7 or harder. TopoDirectionsApproach - 5 minutes Recommended RoutesOver Easy - 5.9 - fun route with small roof Barton Creek GreenbeltFun 40 foot cliffs. Not as polished as Seismic Wall. Appropriate for climbers climbing 5.9 or harder. TopoDirectionsApproach - 15 minutes Recommended RoutesMeet the Flintstones - 5.9 - Far left climb. Local classic. Easy climbing to high first bolt. Walk the Dog - 5.11b Buddha - 5.12a - Pump fest. Gus FruhLow traffic (relevant to most Greenbelt walls). You want to be a solid 5.10 climber so you have extensive options in this area. TopoDirectionsRecommended RoutesFern Bar - 5.9 More information regarding the greenbelt can be found at http://www.bloodyflapper.com/areas/areas.php?area_id=6 . Bull Creek BouldersI haven't had a chance to go out there yet but from my understanding this is a good bouldering area for beginner to intermediate boulderers with room for development of harder problems. Directionshttp://www.bloodyflapper.com/areas/areas.php?area_id=4 Mckinney Falls State ParkBouldering area well known for its challenging, sharp problems. You want to be bouldering V4 or harder to enjoy this location. TopoDirectionsLocal Climbing ClubCentral Texas Mountaineers - Meet once a month at the Whole Earth in South Austin. http://ctmrocks.com/ is the official website for this group. Local Climbing GymAustin Rock Gym has two gyms in Austin. Their official website is http://www.austinrockgym.com/ . The north gym is a bouldering gym (two ropes on super easy terrain are available but except for that it is all bouldering). The north gym has boulder problems ranging from extremely easy to double digit boulder problems. The south gym is better if you are looking to Top Rope or Lead. A great bouldering cave and boulder problems on the lead walls are also available. Employees are nice. Discount for Central Texas Mountaineer members. These gyms are good places to meet climbers. Dirt BaggingAustin is not a cheap city to live in. Your best bet to dirt bag Austin is to climb the greenbelt and sleep at pace bend with a bunch of friends. You can even park all your cars at the HEB across from the access road to Pace Bend and then just drive one car into Pace Bend with you and all your buddies packed in it (if you have a pickup truck they don't have any problem if you stack 15 people in the back and role in with your $15 per night camping fee). The second best way to dirt bag Austin is chances are you know somebody who goes to school at University of Texas. Live with them for a while.
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