Key Features Cap Strap
This is a feature seen in many of Burton's bindings,
but Ride along with other manufacturers have similar systems. It allows the binding's toe strap to go over the toe of the boot
(instead of the top of the foot), thus relieving pressure on the arch of the foot. It also helps push the boot
into the back of the binding, which reduces toe drag and increases control.
There are two main versions of rear entry bindings
provided by the manufacturers Flow, and K2 (pictured above). This style of binding combines the ease of a step in binding, with the support of a strap in binding. Riders are able to skate off the lift and can get the binding on without coming to a stop, and thus avoiding the big group of snowboarders tweaking their bindings
at the top of every run.
Like snowboards, bindings
come in many different amounts of flex. A binding that has more flex in it tends to respond slower to a rider's movements, while a binding that is stiffer responds quicker. For that reason, many of the more advanced bindings
tend to be stiffer than most of the cheaper, beginner level set-ups.
There are many different kinds of bindings
with many different kinds of adjustment features, but here are a couple general rules of thumb that may help you get everything out of your bindings
that is possible:
Highback forward lean adjustment- Highbacks are made to ride against the back of the boot. There is usually a forward lean adjustment to bring it closer or further away from your boot. For a looser ride, take it away from the back of the boot. For a more aggressive stance it should be pressing into the back of the boot forcing you into a more aggressive position. Most people just make sure it's in full contact with the back of the boot.
Heel Cup Adjustment- The highback of most bindings can be turned to match the boot a little better. Usually this is accomplished by loosening and adjusting screws towards the back of the binding.
Strap Adjustment- There are way too many people that take their bindings out of the box and slap it on their board without adjusting their straps. Instead make sure the straps are centered on your foot and not too far on one side or the other.
Gas Pedal Adjustment- Many bindings come with a front gas pedal that can be extended for people with bigger feet. This can usually only be adjusted when the binding is completely off the board. You want to pull this front platform out far enough to where the entire flat area on the bottom of your snowboard boot is supported by the binding (so it shouldn't go to the end of the boot, where it curves up, but rather stop right at that curve).
There are two main kinds of hole patterns on a snowboard:
Burton's and everyone else's. There aren't compatibility issues between them, but you should be aware of the difference before trying to mount any other manufacturer's binding to a Burton board. Everyone pretty much except for Burton uses a pattern that has two roles of holes, while Burton uses a diamond pattern.
Mounting your Binding
Mounting a binding to a board isn't brain surgery, but if you've never done it before, you might think it's pretty close.
There are two main pieces to snowboard bindings,
the plate and the binding. To mount them, you first need to determine which foot you want to lead with, then the degree settings for each binding. The majority of people like to lead with their left foot and a common stance setting is about 15 degrees out for the lead foot and about 5 degrees out for the back foot.
For people that like to ride switch
(you go backwards as often as you go forwards) you will want both feet to have the same settings (most people use a setting at about 10-20 degrees).
Because of the difference in hole layouts, it often can cause confusion when fitting another manufacturer's binding to a Burton board. The following diagram shows how to get another manufacturer's binding on a Burton board.