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Snowboard Bindings

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Snowboard Bindings

Snowboard bindings are the connection between a rider and their board. They are often overlooked or thought of as unimportant (snowboards get all the good press). Nevertheless, if you want to control that sweet new board you picked out for yourself, you better not skimp on the bindings or you will find out quickly how important they really are.

With the new technologies coming out, like rear entry bindings and cap straps, bindings are becoming more comfortable and personal than ever. If you're staring at the screen right now with a blank face not knowing where to start when it comes to bindings, this article is a good place to start. We'll be running through some major features, tuning and adjustment, and mounting.
Popular Snowboard Bindings (View all Snowboard Bindings)
Burton Custom Binding
$69.86 - 189.99
Burton Mission Bindings
$113.95 - 229.95

Key Features

Cap Strap
This is a feature seen in many of Burton's bindings, but Ride along with other manufacturers have similar systems. It allows the binding's toe strap to go over the toe of the boot (instead of the top of the foot), thus relieving pressure on the arch of the foot. It also helps push the boot into the back of the binding, which reduces toe drag and increases control.

Rear Entry
There are two main versions of rear entry bindings provided by the manufacturers Flow, and K2 (pictured above). This style of binding combines the ease of a step in binding, with the support of a strap in binding. Riders are able to skate off the lift and can get the binding on without coming to a stop, and thus avoiding the big group of snowboarders tweaking their bindings at the top of every run.

Like snowboards, bindings come in many different amounts of flex. A binding that has more flex in it tends to respond slower to a rider's movements, while a binding that is stiffer responds quicker. For that reason, many of the more advanced bindings tend to be stiffer than most of the cheaper, beginner level set-ups.

Binding Anatomy

Binding Parts
1. Toe Strap
2. Upper Strap
3. Ratchet
4. Highback
5. Forward Lean Adjustment
6. Base Plate
7. Binding adapter plate goes here.

Binding adjustment
There are many different kinds of bindings with many different kinds of adjustment features, but here are a couple general rules of thumb that may help you get everything out of your bindings that is possible:

Hole Patterns
There are two main kinds of hole patterns on a snowboard: Burton's and everyone else's. There aren't compatibility issues between them, but you should be aware of the difference before trying to mount any other manufacturer's binding to a Burton board. Everyone pretty much except for Burton uses a pattern that has two roles of holes, while Burton uses a diamond pattern.

Mounting your Binding
Mounting a binding to a board isn't brain surgery, but if you've never done it before, you might think it's pretty close.

There are two main pieces to snowboard bindings, the plate and the binding. To mount them, you first need to determine which foot you want to lead with, then the degree settings for each binding. The majority of people like to lead with their left foot and a common stance setting is about 15 degrees out for the lead foot and about 5 degrees out for the back foot.

For people that like to ride switch (you go backwards as often as you go forwards) you will want both feet to have the same settings (most people use a setting at about 10-20 degrees).

Because of the difference in hole layouts, it often can cause confusion when fitting another manufacturer's binding to a Burton board. The following diagram shows how to get another manufacturer's binding on a Burton board.
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