2009-11-05 | Black Diamond Camalot C3 by evanwish
Good: -Very narrow head
-very flexible in horizontals.
-feel really secure
-cam pivots alot around middle lobe while it walks, great for booty'ing gear from people who aren't used to that yet... ;]
Bad: -not much individual cam manipulation.
-clog with dirt
-expensive
Alternatives: aliens and TCU's (and others, i just have experience with these two) |
2009-11-05 | Omega Pacific Link Cam by evanwish
Good: -lots of range
-outward flaring/irregular cracks
-really aren't as heavy as they seem (just off balance)
Bad: -can get stuck easier than any other cam (as my partner sadly found out on Mt.Russell) This is because even when you pull the trigger ALL the way, there's still a few more millimeters to be retracted.
Alternatives: I do not believe these are a complete supplement to your other cams because there are always some places that fit other cams better. (also i feel other cams are a lot more durable) |
2009-10-28 | Stubai Ultralight by danmerrick
Good: Will fit almost any shoe or boot - not perfectly but well enough. Light and quick to put on. I use them for crossing snow fields on approach, etc. With stiff boots they would be fine for moderate alpine climbing.
Bad: Alloy wears away faster than steel. The buckle looks suspicious but I haven't had any trouble with it yet.
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2009-10-23 | Five Ten Siren Climbing Shoe - Women's by littlemisfit679
Good: Super comfortable, low volume, narrow heel, great for smearing
Bad: laces are WAY to long, Onyx is a bit unsensative compared to C4, mine started falling apart after 2 weeks (delamination on the uppers)
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2009-10-13 | Black Diamond Yosemite Hammer by checkpositive001
Good: Good head weight and handle length--perfect for hand drilling bolts.
Easily modified.
Bad: Pricey.
Alternatives: old A5 hammer (if you can find one)
a geologist's pick hammer works well, especially for cleaning cracks if you're into doing FA's. |
2009-10-05 | Petzl Elios Helmet by deathbybowtie
Good: Comfortable, easy to adjust, pretty light.
Bad: Could probably use some more ventilation (I sweat like a pig in it)
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2009-10-05 | ABC Arc by facebookuser
Good: Works as well as any other atc
Bad: could have some kind of teeth on it for quicker stopping
Alternatives: Black Diamond or Petzl product. spring plates aren't bad either... |
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2009-10-01 | Petzl Ascension by razwww
Good: This is the best ascension device from all that I've used (and there has been some...). Easy to use and resistent to wear.
Bad: Although simple, it can be used wrong! Read the manual first!
Alternatives: Anything in case of emergency :) Read and learn as much methods as you can to get yourself out of trouble if needed. |
2009-09-22 | Mad Rock Flash Velcro by CrimpMe
Good: Heel Cup, Great for Bouldering and Sport Climbing
Bad: Mediocure for edging and Trad Climbing
Alternatives: Ive climbed in all-brands of shoes in my years, and I figured Id finally give MadRock a try. I chose the Flash because of their easy velcro closure, and not overly-aggressive rand, Im glad I did. They fit really well and True to street shoe size (9.5). Its also nice that theyre unlined (definitely keeps odors down), and the padded overlapping toungue is really comfortable so you can really pull the velcro down snug.
The rubber is great. Its a little softer than what Im used to, so Id stay away from climbing trad and edging, but I found it to be really great for higher friction climbs. Great shoes for bouldering and sport. It worked perfectly on sandstone, and gritty conglomerate rock. The heel-cup is really the best part. I believe last Time I was out, a bystanding climber accused me of having the cheater heel because it works so well. (Turn that foot outit works everytime!) So anyway, for $75, you really cant beat the price and performance. Way to go MadRock! |
2009-09-19 | Black Diamond Stopper by justinwbono
Good: Color coded for easy identification. Easy to use.
Bad: possible difficulty when pumped trying to find the correct piece.
Alternatives: tri cams. |
2009-09-19 | CAMP USA Tri-Cams by justinwbono
Good: Bomber feel when placed correctly. Fit in places other camming devices fail. No moving parts to break or worry about.
Bad: not as easy to use as a cam at first but with practice they become easier.
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2009-09-13 | Mammut Infinity 9.5mm by brettbrown
Good: This is a great rope. The 70m weighs less than my 60m B.W. 10.5. Not only is it a dry rope, the extra coating on it keeps the ice off it. When I need to replace it, I will be buying the same thing.
Bad: The only thing I will change on my next purchase would be the color. I paid an extra $30 for the Duodess. In the pictures it looks realy easy to determine the center. In reality it is quite easy to miss the center when setting up the rapel. You can't miss the center of my Blue Water bi-color. This is why I gave it only 4 stars.
Alternatives: Get the orange color and mark the center. |
2009-09-11 | Metolius 3/4 Finger Climbing Glove by jonnymtman
Good: Less for climbing and more for rope work, unless you are in Europe doing climbing via feratta. Is so, having theses while grabbing rock, cables and spikes is invaluable.
Bad: Hot, poke some holes in them to make a fun design and get some airflow.
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