2010-08-14 | CMI Rescue 8 by facebookuser
Good: This device is great for what it was designed to do, and that is to be used by the professionals. Hence the designation "Rescue" 8.
It can be used like a regular figure 8 however, why pay more for this tool/equipment (which is designed to do more than a figure 8) if you're only wanting a decending device?
When used properly, this equipment is actually SLOWER than the "regular" figure 8, because more surface area comes into contact with the rope, thereby causing more friction.
The key to using this equipment properly is... proper training. I DON'T recommend that anyone purchase one of these, go to the face and try to figure it out. As with any vertical equipment, that would only be a good way to become a statistic. If you're going faster on one of these than you go on a regular 8, I recommend that at the very least you consider getting some additional training RAPIDLY!
Thanx for letting me get my opinion in.
Stay safe ya'll! |
2010-08-03 | Trango Jaws by stocker87
Good: Basic belay device. Very easy to use. Rotate the device and you have a much higher friction belay side. |
2010-07-27 | Five Ten Project by checkpositive001
Good: Good heel hooking.
Good for very steep climbs.
Bad: Not very comfortable--seems to fit different than other FiveTen shoes.
Thin inside/outside edging is hard to do in this shoe---it seems more suited for front point style climbing.
The poor smearing ability makes these very specialized shoes; thus I rarely use them.
Alternatives: Moccasym Slipper
Boreal Slipper |
2010-07-20 | Bluewater Titan Cord by checkpositive001
Good: Can be good for slinging hexes.
Good strength/weight ratio.
Bad: Not versatile. Generally poor handling.
http://www.mountaineers.org/seattle/climbing/Reference/Cordelette.html
Alternatives: For anchors and general use, go with 7mm nylon cordelette |
2010-07-18 | Black Diamond Freewire Quickdraw by StevenBopp
Good: Very strong dogbone, 22kn also it has two quicksilver biners which i really like for the fact the fact that they fit very well in my hand, also color coded top and bottom help
Bad: On the heavier side
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2010-07-18 | Black Diamond Quicksilver Screwgate by StevenBopp
Good: Solid gate, fits very well in my hands, good for people with large hands
Bad: The locking screw can chafe and mess up a belay loop so my suggestion is to girth hitch a runner to the belay loop and clip into the runner
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2010-07-05 | Trango Shark Nut Tool by jonnymtman
Good: I like gear that have multiple functions. This is a well shaped and strong nut tool. You can beat on the back of it to retrieve jammed pro. While on a carabiner it will not open and has lock to keep it open when engaged. While I rarely need a knife this is readily available and doesn't add the weight of another knife.
Bad: Doesn't open beer bottles.
Alternatives: Metolius Freenut |
2010-06-22 | Metolius FS Mini Carabiner by danmerrick
Good: Lightweight and small saving weight and space. I bought some of these and hung cams from them.
Bad: They are small, don't plan on clove hitching ropes to these or clipping several things into them. So far, I find them just a bit harder to clip the rope into on lead. Worst feature is that they look exactly like the Black Diamind non-climbing keychain biner.
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2010-05-28 | La Sportiva Solution by MontanaMike
Good: Great aggressive shoe, perfect for steep limestone pockets. The heel and toe hooks are phenomenal. They are very comfortable and quick to get on.
Bad: These shoes fall apart fast. The toe rand peeled off in only a month, held on only a bit longer with super glue. The edge on this shoe rounded out fast as well, even out of the box the edging was a bit poor.
Alternatives: All shoes are different. Buy a pair that fit your style. Suggesting alternatives just isn't possible. |
2010-05-26 | Mammut Tusk 9.8 by MontanaMike
Good: This is a good sport/trad rope. Includes middle marker, making raps that much easier. The tusk is a good balance of durability and diameter.
Bad: It is not dry treated and is very vulnerable to the elements. Make sure you lay this rope on a bag and coil it fast when it starts to rain/snow.
Alternatives: If I wouldn't have bought this rope from a friend with "hookups" I would have gone with a dry treated 70m, just my preference and style. |
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2010-05-18 | Black Diamond Tracer Helmet by pengshi
Good: -Light weight, it feels like I'm wearing a bigger bike helmet.
-Well fitting. I have a big head, and this is one of the few helmets that doesn't look like it's sitting on top of my head.
Bad: -Ugly
-Bulky
Alternatives: I also tried Meteor III from Petzl in store, and that fitted pretty well, too. It Felt about the same weight. |
2010-05-18 | Omega Pacific Jake Quik-Lok by pengshi
Good: I been using one from a friend, loved it so much, I got two of my own.
-Huge opening.
-Always locks back by itself.
-I got the keylock gate, so it doesn't snag on ropes.
-Easy to open with one hand
Bad: -Big, I manage to fit it through a grigri, but it took some effort and twisting.
Alternatives: -If you want more gate lock security, get the 3-Stage quick-lok. |
2010-05-18 | Evolv Defy by mill87
Good: I love this shoe. just got back into climbing, and for me it was great. The grip is awesome and the feel is superb
Bad: The one thing that I wish the shoe had was a more aggressive heel. and the fact that they are black makes the get really hot in the sun
Alternatives: If you are willing to spend a little extra the Evolv Pontas, or the 5.10 galileo would be a good alternative. |
2010-05-17 | Stubai Ultralight by codym
Good: Work great for the moderate snow climbing I've done. Weight wise, I can't even tell they're there. They fit my DC snowboard boots great and I havne't had any problems with them coming loose or coming off.
Bad: This is really a non-issue, but the strap is really long. I wasn't really happy with wrapping it around my boot an extra time, but not doing that left a lot of strap to deal with.
Alternatives: These are the first crampons I've used, so nothing to compare to. |
2010-05-16 | Black Diamond Stopper Set by litld01
Good: Great solid gear took a 6 foot fall on a #5 held up very nice after i got it out of the rock only minor scracthes
Bad: none so far
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2010-04-22 | Scarpa Feroce by surfinclimber
Good: Nice shoes, stick very well to the granite around my area. They haven't stretched much and have stayed the size I bought. Edging is super nice as well as small cracks and pockets. The rubber is sweet and sticky. Velcro is holding nicely.
Bad: They don't stretch as much as you would think. Size up 1/2 size from what you think you would use or pay a painful price.
Alternatives: La Sportiva Miura VS, RED Chili Matador (if you can find it) |
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