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Climbing Gear > Belay and Rappel Devices > Tube Style Belay Devices

Omega Pacific SBG II

Stats
Weight77 g
Max Diameter (mm)8

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Omega Pacific SBG II
4.5 out of 5 based on 8 user reviews.


Cred: 9
Review by hueco001 on Nov. 14, 2007
This thing rocks. 360 lb fatso falling from the highest rope element on your rope course? No problem. Wanna rap? Ok. Belay your partner who makes big moves and takes big ol' screaming fits of falls? Yup. Two locking grooves that do LOCK, especially the V groove, and a solid stem that helps rather than hinders the belay process. Buy two so you can have a backup for your loser partner who still uses an ATC.
Makes some loud clanky noises when not in active use. Tends to draw stares at your crotch when making aforementioned loud clanky noises.
Dunno. Grigri? Rescue 8? Prayer?


Cred: 303
Review by EmoryRC on Jul. 15, 2008
One of the best tube-style belay devices I've ever used. Wide variety of friction settings let you tune the device for any thickness or condition of rope. Super-versatile. Don't waste your money on a normal ATC, get an SBG
Due to the solid stem, this has the potential to do some funky things when crossloading your belay biner. I would recommend using a Belay Master carabiner if you're gonna use the SBG.
Simond Cubik, ATC-XP


Cred: 150
Review by jfleet4 on Aug. 05, 2008
Very smooth rope feed, no binding when paying out as in most standard wire leash types that i have used. Very durable as well....it is just a chunk of solid metal after all. Many different configurations as well, can even be used as a figure 8.
None that i can think of. This is really the only ATC i use nowadays.


Cred: 173
Review by fb_501012219 on Feb. 27, 2008
Works oretty decently.
Not quite as smooth or easy to use as the Black Diamond ATC
Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller


Cred: 5
Review by crisde on Aug. 10, 2011
The SBG II Belay - Rappel Device by Omega Pacific incorporates a rigid stem allowing climbers to go from full lock-off to feeding out rope in a single, smooth action - no more binding as the device tries to free itself after it has been loaded. The amount of friction can be completely adjusted to suit your particular application. For added friction with a heavy load or skinny ropes, set up the brake line through the V-Slots. Clipping in short into the center oblong hole in the center of the stem adds even more braking power. For less friction or use with thicker ropes use the U-Grooves and clip into the bottom hole of the SBG II for less friction. To rappel down a single strand of rope you can rig the SBG II like a figure-8 by wrapping the cord around the rigid stem; using the V-Slots for small diameter or wet rope; using the U-Groves for thicker rope and a smooth, controlled decent.

The SBG II is by far the best rappel device Ive ever tried. Youll never rap on an 8 or ATC ever again. Spider the SGB II with a 12 sewn sling to move the device further away from your harness and it just gets better; your center of gravity is lowered by elevating the tie-in point which provides a more stable rappel and prevents heavy, cold weather clothing from getting caught in the belay device. The extreme range of friction options and non-twisting super smooth feed make the SBG II the last rappel device youll ever own.

As a belay device I suggest that only the center (short) hole in the stem be used otherwise the ridged stem will bind on your carabiner. Potentially the only drawback (but not really) is that clipped in through the short hole it can sometimes be hard to feed rope on a fast lead climber.

I kinda dig the metallic clanky noise the device makes when dangling and not in use - adds an old school Alpine esthetic.
I bought 2 extras just in case I lose mine or Omega Pacific stops making them for some crazy reason.


Cred: 1250
Review by stephen on Apr. 04, 2011
strong, cheap, and the narrowing groove can stop a rope dead!
kinda heavy


Cred: 18
Review by climberboy123 on Mar. 23, 2009
easy feeding
gets very hot


Cred: 3
Review by dilloncoplin on Feb. 25, 2011
Strong,smooth,Easily the best belay device I have ever used, and at a great price.
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