Omega Pacific Link Cam
4.7 out of 5 based on 20 user reviews.
|These cams set themselves apart from the rest of the field by their wide usable size range. For example, a #2 link cam covers the equivalent of #'s 0.75, 1, and 2 BD camalots. Design advantages include: |
- if the terrain ahead is unknown, link cams are the most likely to fit
- "panic piece" It seems you can throw these in quickly anywhere and they will fit
- secure: normal 4 lobe cams touch the surrounding rock in 4 places. With the lobes retracted down, these touch the rock in 8 or 12 spots.
- work great in flaring cracks where you might need an offset cam
- work good in irregular cracks
- good for blind placements
They are expensive, however you're going to have to buy at least 2 cams of another brand to cover the size range of a single link cam.
|0.5 and 0.75's have a slightly lower strength rating compared to other equivalent size cams, although my partner and I have both taken falls on them and had no problems.|
A little bit heavier than other cams; about the same weight as older BD Camalots.
Being pricey, I get a little paranoid about dropping or losing them.
No thumb loop means you're losing maybe 2 inches of reach when aid climbing.
Lots of moving parts.
I think Metolius TCU's and Power cams generally work better in thin pockets and Aliens and Mastercams better for pin scars.
|Trango max cams come close in terms of size range, but the link cams are really in a league of their own.|
|-lots of range|
-outward flaring/irregular cracks
-really aren't as heavy as they seem (just off balance)
|-can get stuck easier than any other cam (as my partner sadly found out on Mt.Russell) This is because even when you pull the trigger ALL the way, there's still a few more millimeters of range that the trigger will not retract (meaning that you will need to fiddle with a nut tool or two).|
|I do not believe these are a complete supplement to your other cams because there are always some places that fit other cams better. (also i feel other cams are a lot more durable)|
|You are hanging on for dear life you have used your #1 Camalot and need to slam in a piece or possibly take a solid whip. On the other hand you just want to slim down the rack for alpine. It is versatility that give these cams their place on my rack. I tend not to place them on a regular basis only keeping them for the times when I don't have time to fiddle. But it is good to know you have a bailout piece if you need it.|
|There is no thumb loop so it can be cumbersome. The length of the extraction can interfere with placement. Weight is a consideration though that aren't that much heavier than most came out there a small price to pay to the range.|
|max cam. other than that nothing else is in the same league in terms of versatility.|
|Review by MikePB on Feb. 27, 2011|
|These have a wide range and i keep one on my rack as a just in case when I need get to the top to build an anchor.|
|They are very expensive and heavy. I prefer standard cams and just use this as my back up.|
|Place in some solid rock and you are bomber. Love the expansion dots. Very good fit in a number of different sizes.|
|A little bit heavier. Im a big fan of the less moving parts the better but hasnt been a problem.|
|These things are just bad ass! Make me feel safe and I don't have to worry about placement size as much|
|RANGE: Unparalleled in the industry. Great for sport climbers who go tradding and don't know what's going on|
RANGE: Perfect when you're at the creek on 120' of tight hands. You can place all your #1's and your #2's.
RANGE: Ideal for alpine moderates when pro is few and far between and you want to carry only a few pieces. Carry a .5 link and leave the .5, .4, and .3 BD's behind.
RANGE: Eliminate sketchiness at anchors at the end of long pitches. Nothing is tipped out or undercammed (almost nothing).
RANGE: Great for building a beginning top rope trad rack. Own fewer pieces and save money while still being able to protect the same placements.
range, Range, RANGE: Get the picture? :)
|Link .5 is 8kN BD is 12kN|
Link .75 is 10kN BD is 14kN
Link 1-2 are 14kN BD are 14kN
-Takeaway point: Who falls anyway?
Link Cams are heavier
-Takeaway point: It's training for mountaineering
Link Cams have more moving parts to break when you drop 'em
-Do you climb on other dropped cams?
The trigger and thumb rest suck
-Agreed... copy BD Omega and then I'll marry a #2
-But you don't have to own as many because they all place well everywhere
|Nothing on the market is comparable. Link or die. :)|
#1 and #2's pictured in Joshua Tree @ Trash Can Rock
|Killer range and tricky fit in places standard cams won't go. |
One of my favorite types of placements with a link cam is the C shaped crack, where the cam goes in behind a lip that is narrower than the actual opening.
Super range makes them easy to place and remove quickly and this makes for a decent panic piece - just have to be careful to place them so that the links don't get funky loads which can impact their "panic-worthiness" a bit.
|All are kind of heavy and the long stem makes the yellow swing quite a bit.|
Watch out for convoluted cracks where the lobes can catch, particularly when placed deep. When cammed down small, there are a lot more bits to snag on the rock (think about all of those loose lobes dangling).
Also, have to be careful of torquing forces, esp when cammed down small. Load these carefully in straight-on placements if you can with the unused lobes not touching much stuff. When the links are out they created a lever arm on the small joints that can cause breakage if loaded improperly.
The smallest end of the range in all of these cams is particularly difficult to use. Very little play and when way back in a crack the dangling lobes make it very hard to see what is going on (particularly important with smaller cam placements) or to clean. As such, I just use the first two "steps" on these cams. Plus if you don't use the tightest setting you have that much more range to play with when cleaning.
As noted, weaker strength of smaller sizes is a bit annoying.
|Wouldn't recommend any alternatives since these are very specialized, but they certainly complement a standard rack.|
|Just got the new 0.5 and 0.75 Link Cams and they are even better than the 1 and 2. Their range is excellent, and the trigger mechanism feels better than with the bigger cams. It's just GREAT to have some spare range if you have to get that cam into that small crack while you get pumped...|
|They are slightly heavier than other cams.|
|There is no alternative if you want the range link cams can give you.|
|Review by Zeric1 on Mar. 28, 2009|
|These things are very cool, the wide range makes placing them much easier than most cams out there. Although heavy, you won't have to carry as many cams in total to it works out about the same weight wise.|
|Walls just eat these cams. It seems when I really need to place some pro these always fit. They are my goto cams anytime I am feeling desperate.|
|Because of their complex structure they are heavier other cams. They don't always place well in shallow cracks as they become ver long as they collapse down.|
|Huge Range. These are your don't panic cams. Pop them in and forget about it. The range is unbelievable.|
Also you crack the casing on the stem and they will still hold.
Good supplement to a single rack of C4s
|Heavy, More rigid than C4s, and More complexity means more points of failure.|
|These cams may weigh a little more, but I carry fewer cams since these cover a wider range. They also seem to fit better in cracks that are not symetrical or that flare.|
I take them everywhere.
|If you bottom the cam out in a crack you might not get it back.|
|Super easy to place and bomber strong|
|Heavy and third lobe is limited to only deep cracks|
|Amazing range. Takes out the guess work. It's my "oh, shit!" cam.|
|a little heavy, but much lighter than carrying 2 cams. A follower complained that they walk too much?|
|I have the 1 and 2....they remind me of transformers. Freakin' sweet!|
|very versitile. easy to place quickly when you are tired|
|expensive, but very worth the price|
|i have both any i do not regret it|
|good cams, i aint dead yet|