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Climbing Gear > Active Protection > Cams

Metolius Master Cam

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Weight62 g

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Metolius Master Cam
4.5 out of 5 based on 16 user reviews.

Cred: 881
Review by evanwish on Mar. 30, 2010
i've been aiding on these and they are much MUCH better than the Power cams and TCU's. The offset versions are truly amazing and stick in places no other cam would (except some aliens)
in the small sizes the heads are narrower than aliens, but in larger sizes the aliens are narrower.
the two trigger wires are kinda funky for aiding but they work.
short sling makes it slightly more prone to walking so sling them when in doubth

Cred: 248
Review by Shifu on Jul. 09, 2011
My favorite small cam. Very well constructed and confidence inspiring. Since I mostly climb on Camalots, I appreciate having good, small single-stem units.

I don't have a problem with the kevlar so many complain of, but if it breaks Metolius will repair the cam for free. It's not as if it's load-bearing.
The rangefinder dots are a little silly and suggest ridiculously tight placements. The trigger is placed closer to the lobes than on other cams and can make deep placements tricky.
Aliens, once Fixe starts making them in Sep 2011.

Cred: 1096
Review by jeepnphreak on Nov. 24, 2010
Fits into narrow slots.
Flexible too, I fell after a horizontal placement on a number 5 and it held no problem and there was no damage to the stem at all.
Not sure if it bad but the Kevlar "wire" still have me wondering, but they have been just fine for two seasons now.
TCU for small placements

Power cams if you like U stems

but the master cam are unique over all.

Cred: 245
Review by hckysckr88 on Jul. 29, 2008
Metolius has done it again, with an easy to place, diverse cam
Although easy to place, if one must place in an other than optimal location: deep, undulating rock, or other such nonsense, it becomes a beast to remove
aliens, camalots, friends, etc

Cred: 1073
Review by scottydo on Aug. 31, 2008
Super Flexible. Just got to take a good look at these the other day and they look pretty solid and fairly worry free. Guy I talked to at REI who has actually climbed with them absolutely loves them and already owns a full set.
Not really sure of any. Heard that if the stem kinks they're hard to clean
Black Diamond C4s/C3s.

Cred: 40569
Review by marks on Nov. 24, 2008
Excellent flexibility and easy to place. I haven't had any problems with these flipping or moving. Very pleased.

Cred: 5
Review by offRouter on Jun. 29, 2009
Brilliant, narrow-headed cams. Flexibility is excellent, trigger tension is perfect, thumb loop is comfy, design is sleek, and shape recovers well after falls.
I have had the #2 blow on me twice, however this wasn't the cam's fault. Because of the remarkably thin cam lobes, this baby distributes a lot of force over a small area, and can cause slightly suboptimal rock to crumble, shatter. Be wary of placing these in rock that looks even slightly chossy/rotten! Again, I don't blame the cam--it's designed to have a tiny footprint for protecting pin scars and small pods/seams that are otherwise impossible to protect. This was the price I paid for its adaptability!
Many still swear by Aliens--the Master Cam matches or exceeds much of the great Alien slim Profile but doesn't offer the more malleable Head alloy that many still prefer as a more solid placement in hard or grainy rock (think malleable aid gear). However, the C3/Master Cam experiment seems to have come out strongly in Metolius's favor. Few seem to prefer C3s anymore for various reasons, including rapid decline in trigger action with time. Most folks I know are now trying to trade their C3s in for Masters.

Cred: 629
Review by AMGAwolf on Mar. 02, 2011
I think these are the best cams on the market. I dont trad as much as I use to, but these are great for aid and anchor set up.

Cred: 1321
Review by MikePB on Jul. 13, 2011
These cams are great for small placements. The very flexible stem makes the great for horizontal placements. The are relatively inexpensive.
Nothing yet.

Cred: 8
Review by coolcarl on Jul. 06, 2011
Great flexible stem and strong metal that's great in granite. Narrow head works well in pockets. Thumb loop is nice as well
Action is not as smooth as Aliens

Cred: 5
Review by csuwehling on Mar. 16, 2011
These are a great addition to your rack. They supplement C4s very well. They are similar to older CCH Aliens with a single flexible stem and narrow head.
The larger 2 sizes flop a little when retracted, I recommend 0-4. 00 if you are aiding and forgo 5 & 6.
None if you ask me

Cred: 418
Review by snowman on Dec. 06, 2008
small and fits cracks nice ;0)

Cred: 13
Review by amartinuzzi on Mar. 09, 2009
flexible, super solid placement w/ 4 lobes.
trigger bar pretty small

Cred: 17
Review by litld01 on May. 07, 2011
very light range fider is awsome very flexible
wish for double sling

Cred: 3
Review by slareau on Jul. 06, 2011
Best small cams you can get. Very stable.
Trigger wire life?
TCU and C3

Cred: 338
Review by dude1971 on May. 24, 2008
Best CAM in the entire world. I use nothing else!
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