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Climbing Gear > Tube Style Belay Devices > Auto-Blocking Belay Devices

Mammut Smart Belay Device

Stats
Weight82 g
Max Diameter (mm)8.9

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Mammut Smart Belay Device
4 out of 5 based on 5 user reviews.


Cred: 1096
Review by jeepnphreak on Aug. 02, 2011
Very light weight.
easy to use.
Pretty good for single pitch stuff.
I feel it shines the best for toproping
With 10mm+ ropes it wants to lock so feeding slack to a leader takes prectice.

lowering can be tricky the auto blocking is a bit toutch and go.

this on only handles one rope to rapping/duale strand anything is not possible.

Great idea but just need some tweeks.

Not really con or a pro but the auto blocking does slip giving a nice soft catch so dont take your hand off the brake!
grigri and girgir 1

I prefer a standard ATC.


Cred: 1088
Review by dvalente on Apr. 12, 2012
I like the simple open construction. It works well with thin ropes. Great for top-roping. Okay for lead, the thinner the rope and biner you use the better it belays for lead, but the less it locks on it's own. The soft-catch is nice. It doesn't seize the rope like a gri-gri, but lets a little slide through as it locks down. I feel safer belaying in this with thicker gloves on than with an ATC.
Performance varies considerably with rope diameter and biner used. Once you get it dialed in, it works reasonably well. There is a bit of a learning curve where you feel like you might drop your climber during the first couple of lowers resulting in some serious yo-yo action.
The Smart Alpine if you plan to do any double-rope work or rappel off it. It wasn't available when I bought my smart or I would definitely have bought it instead.
A traditional ATC is a fine choice for a little less money.


Cred: 164
Review by CaptainAwesome on Feb. 10, 2011
The Smart is good option when you want the auto-locking benefits of a grigri without the extra weight (and cost). Additionally, the simple, transparent construction lacks any mechanical elements or moving parts - i.e. fewer elements that can fail - making it a good option for those that swear by the simplicity of ATC-style devices. It's a great option when projecting a route where you anticipate some hang dogging from your climber. While you should never take a hand off the brake strand on any device, the Smart takes some weight so you don't need a strength-sapping death grip to hold a hanging climber. Added bonus, it's unique design is a conversation starter as those unfamiliar with it will question the funky looking piece hanging on your rack.
As mentioned before, the Smart takes a little bit of practice to master. During the first few belay cycles, most people "yo-yo" their climber on lowers, especially when working on ropes with different diameters than what they're used to. Once you get it dialed in, the functionality becomes as smooth as lowering off a traditional device.
It falls somewhere in the middle, so alternatives would be either go down to an ATC-style device or up to the grigri.


Review by Facebook User on Feb. 26, 2010
Extremely easy to feed slack when lead belaying, auto-locking feature is excellent and comparable to a grigri. In general, very similar to a gri-gri in operation but cheaper and lighter.
A bit sensitive when lowering someone, and auto-locking does not lock 100% like it does on a gri-gri, so, you can't really take a hand off the rope when someone is hanging as with a gri-gri.
gri-gri, cinch, reverso. this one is the best though.


Cred: 44
Review by ltfrem on Nov. 03, 2013
Auto-lock, beginner friendly
Not friendly to wider ropes
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Maximum Diameter (mm)Weight
Mammut
Smart Belay Device

$20.97 - 34.95
8.982 g
Petzl
Reverso 3 (Discontinued)


8.9
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77 g
(-6%)
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