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Climbing Gear > Tube Style Belay Devices > Auto-Blocking Belay Devices

Mammut Smart Alpine

Stats
Weight135 g
Max Diameter (mm)10.5

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Mammut Smart Alpine
3 out of 5 based on 4 user reviews.


Cred: 195
Review by toclimb on Mar. 11, 2011
So I was stoked to get my hands on the smart alpine belay device. at first it seemed like it was the best of both worlds. in a gym setting it assisted in locking off falls.
then when i put it to real world tests(ice climbing at lake willoughby) it was quite different. the opportunity lies when you set it up off the anchor in auto lock mode.the biner that is used that the actual ropes lock off on too runs outside the device(as per instructions).not like the reverso or the atc guide that the cable keeps it attached to the device. i ended up dropping my large william gate petzl biner that I was using. the second challenge lies in that the device is so wide that not all locking biners work...
stay with your atc guide or reverso. use a grigri for everything else.


Cred: 14
Review by zihyer on Mar. 16, 2011
Excellent design and very safe. I performed several drop tests using this and the top two "auto" locking belay devices as well as the bronze cousin to this device. In the drop tests, i was able to successfully hold one of the 'auto' lockers (smaller one) completely open creating a free fall scenario and only able to hold the other 'auto' locker partially wide open creating a reduced speed fall. Using the Smart and the other 'cousin' device, i was unable to create a free fall scenario. Bottom line is that it would be very difficult to use this device in such a way that a falling climber would be able to fall at a completely free rate.
Difficult to feed lead clipping slack until you get the hang of it. Lowering is a little choppy until you get the hang of it.
Perhaps a WildCountry SRC. The advantage this has over the SRC is that the Smart and Smart Alpine have a handle.


Cred: 8
Review by thesiegeld on Mar. 29, 2011
For use as a seconding device, it worked very smoothly. Once you get the hang of it, lead belaying is smooth as well. The real plus side is the "semi-auto locking" that the Smart provides. I used it repelling a few times already, and although Mammut recommends a back up such as a prussic, I didn't feel one was necessary. The device really does lock up on the rope.
Also, it looks really cool.
Takes a while to get used to, especially while lowering. You need a wider carabiner for it. I ran into some trouble the second time I used it because I was not using a large enough biner. Another downside would be its size. Although lighter than an ATC guide, its a little bit bulkier.
There is no other device like it that can provide assisted locking belays for seconding and leading in one device. It the assistance is not that important to you, go with a ATC guide or Petzel Reverso


Cred: 10
Review by Regoldstein on May. 17, 2011
Light and auto locking works well with multiple rope sizes
Choppy lowering, plastic parts make it look like a toy
ATC guide
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