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Climbing Gear > Climbing Shoes > Climbing Shoes - Men's

Evolv Optimus Prime

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Evolv Optimus Prime
4.4 out of 5 based on 5 user reviews.

Cred: 141
Review by philchai on Nov. 26, 2008
The OPs (Optimus Prime) have an extremely comfortable tongue/liner with breatheable skin. The shoe will not stretch (synthetic) and has fairly aggressive arch that will not give; this shoe is ideal for bouldering/overhanging, but has some limited vertical wall capability. Smearing with this shoe tends to be difficult. Its moderately shallow heel will mold to your foot and non-protruding heel allows for easy heel hooking. The best feature about this shoe is the unique rubber placement on the toes and instep; toe camming (hooking) is excellent, allowing you to toe cam/hook along interior and exterior parts of the instep. The rounded toe box is not aesthetically-pleasing to my eye, but gives you the ability to excel on steep, edgy rock because you can put a lot of stress on your big toe(s). Bonus, the OPs have the super sticky TRAX XT-5 rubber.

Key Pros:
* Great edging ability (small foot-holds)
* Comfy tongue/liner
* Snug, shallow heel
* Breatheable skin
* Sticky rubber (on the toes and instep)
As far as the negatives are concerned, the OPs run extremely small; I sized up from a 7.5-8 (40.5) to a 9 (41.5) and they are still very tight. I did some buildering inside the store for 2 minutes as a demo. However, after a session at the crag, I was forced to take them off between rests. This shoe is also expensive as is a lot of other high end climbing alternatives. On vertical walls, the OPs perform decently, but can be difficult to smear with.

Key Cons:
* Tight shoe
* Expensive
* Moderate smearing ability
Overall, the OPs are a great, high end bouldering shoe for an intermediate to advanced climber (V5+ or greater, 5.10a or greater). I would NOT recommend these to beginners. In lieu of the OPs, I would also recommend the La Sportiva Testarossas, La Sportiva Solution, Scarpa Boosters, Five Ten Anasazis, or Five Ten Jet 7s.

Cred: 17
Review by jake g on Sep. 16, 2008
great for most any type climbing, comfortable tongue allows longer climbing comfort, snug heel and mildly aggressive arch makes it a great boulder/sport shoe, i have a pair signed personally by Chris Sharma himself (creator of the shoe)
i myself made the mistake of thinking the shoe size variations were the same in all brands, just make sure u have the right size and you'll be fine.
La Sportiva Katanas

Cred: 9
Review by RasTafari on Dec. 22, 2008
These are my super over-hung shoes. The rubber is super sticky and the rounded toebox allows me to drive all my power through my big toe.
Unfortunately, driving all that power through my big toe put holes in the rands in 2 months. But I do climb 3 times a week, so I geuss thats about average.
For me, I love these shoes, but I bought a pair of Anasazi Verde's to do most of the gym work and slabby climbs.

Cred: 8
Review by dkwan on Sep. 01, 2011
Fits great! comfortable after breaking them in for about 2 weeks. They are also pretty agressive.
Rubber is too Soft, wears out fast

Cred: 29
Review by alex m on Sep. 29, 2008
pretty stiff and semi pointed this shoe is good for both bouldering and vertical to steep sport climbing.
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