| Evolv Defy VTR 4.2 out of 5 based on 39 user reviews.
 Cred: 555 | | The velcro is really solid. The nonstretch synthetic material is nice for beginners because it's easier to dial in the fit in-store. Sole is pretty sensitive. Trax rubber is great - durable and sticky. Heel cup fits well. |
| Their black, so they get hot in the sun. When they get hot, your feet sweat, and when they sweat, they sort of slide around inside an otherwise tight shoe. |
|
 Cred: 863 | | thin and sensitive with easy on/off velcro, having had these for a month or so now I certainly can see the difference in grip and sensitivity compared to my old cliffs, these rock |
| iv'e heard the synth cowdura stinks after a while but mine are new so that is yet to be seen. |
| 5.10 galelio's if you want to spend the extra $50 |
|
 Cred: 483 | | comfy alldayer do it all shoe
Quite durable Ive resoled mine once and will move on to another shoe after this rubber wears, theyve lasted ~2.5 years.
Quick on and off velcro.
Dont have any complaints concerning the rubber
BEST OF ALL MADE IN THE USA!
|
| not much, perhaps could benifit from some rubber above the toes, Ive worn small holes in mine here from doing toe hooks. |
| pretty much any of evolvs shoes... |
|
 Cred: 141 | | The Evolv Defy are a good, economical, beginner climbing shoe. The rubber is the same Trax 5 found on higher end models like the Optimus and Optimus Primes; it's tacky enough for solid smearing and will not peel off the wall. Despite not having much rubber around the toe, edging and toe camming/hooking is decent. The greatest characteristic of this shoe is its comfortability. By far, it is the softest shoe I have ever worn; I can spend an entire day at the crag without having to ever change shoes or take them off between runs. Bonus: No break-in period is required for these shoes, and they are ready to go right out of the box. The Defy are a good entry level, all-around shoe to start with as you progress and become more enamored with climbing.
Key Pros:
* Economical
* Sticky rubber, solid smearing
* Comfortable
* No break-in period
* Decent all-around shoes |
| With all the good, comes the bad. The Evolv Defy are too soft which makes hard bouldering difficult; little rubber on the toes and minimal downturn limit toe camming and heel hooking. The heel cup is fairly deep, so you may have to size down in order to get a snug fit. In addition, the shoes will begin to smell after a few months. These are the first shoe I have EVER had that smell weird after any period of time; my Evolv Optimus Primes and La Sportiva Solutions have never had any odor whatsoever.
Key Cons:
* Small amount of rubber on toe
* Deep heel cup
* Too soft for hard bouldering
* Synthetic liner smells after limited use |
|
 Cred: 164 | | Evolv's Defy is a great all-around, beginner to intermediate shoe. "Beginner shoe" carries a stigma that's unjust in this case, as I have many friends and colleagues with 10+ years going vertical who still crush in the Defy. For a climbing shoe, the Defy is very comfortable option, with a soft upper that doesn't destroy the foot when you size down - ideal for those who want a snug fit without the pain that comes with a stiff, rubberized upper. I climbed in these for years without a complaint, only moving to a more aggressive model when the toe finally blew out (got to improve my footwork..). For the price, you get a solid shoe with good rubber, and it will prove a solid investment into your climbing career. |
| For those with lower volume, narrow feet, the heel cup may seem a bit large. This only presents an issue on steep overhangs and heel hooks, and like anything else, different brands fit different people better - so this may be a non-issue for some.
Oh, the smell. More than other models I've seen, the Defy takes on a certain funk after repeated uses. While generally manageable, don't make the mistake of leaving these in a hot car during the summer after a day of climbing. When they were my go-to shoe, they lived on the balcony (sorry, neighbors!) or biner'd to the outside of my pack. While this obviously doesn't affect their solid performance, it's worth noting for the sensitive types out there. Pro tip: my tried and true counteroffensive for shoe funk - open them up all the way (undo the velcro, unfold the tongue), sprinkle baby powder liberally on the inside, and leave out in breezy sunlight for a day or so. It'll buy you a few funk-free uses between treatments. |
|
 Cred: 434 | | Great rubber and extremely comfortable for long periods of time. Good price. |
| Not very rigid thus sometimes hard to stay on small face holds. |
|
 Cred: 24 | | Review by galong on Dec. 30, 2010 | | The price is definitely right. These are among the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned, though I did buy them a bit bigger than I should have. The rubber is good for a variety of rock conditions. I have no problem climbing 5.10d routes in these shoes. They edge, smear and do everything I need them to do. I like the black color as it makes me look Goth. :-) |
| Not the most sturdy shoe on the market. The construction seems to be slightly inferior to some higher-end shoes, but that is to be expected given the price. |
|
 Cred: 14 | | A really good shoe for getting into climbing, and when you outgrow it skillwise or tear the soles up, still would make a good gym shoe. Really comfortable and pretty sticky rubber. Velcro is so much easier than lace up. |
| Can wiggle a little loose. Toe and heel are more like standard shoes, so comfortable at first but doesn't hit that high performance niche of shoes with formed toes or really tight heels. |
| For Evolv, the Pontas are pretty good step up. If you want something a little stiffer you might Look at La Sportiva Miura too. |
|
 Cred: 21 | | They fit the shape of my foot and they don't slip around on my foot. What more can a beginer like me ask for. |
| They don't stretch. Hard to wear when belaying others for a long time. |
| Havent had anything else yet. |
|
 Cred: 32 | | I am a new climber and these are my first shoes, but I really like them. I don't have a lot to compare too, but I think they are very comfortable and the fit is good all around. |
| The edging power isn't great, and I think for next pair I will get a stiffer shoe, but I have been really pleased with these so far! |
|
 Cred: 315 | | Review by kord92 on Jan. 06, 2012 | | sticky sole, really comfortable, the velcro is really convenient, and i havent noticed the smell yet! |
| the heel seems to be kinda hard to tighten onto your foot without it sliding a bit, but its possible. |
|
 Cred: 6 | | Review by mill87 on May. 18, 2010 | | I love this shoe. just got back into climbing, and for me it was great. The grip is awesome and the feel is superb |
| The one thing that I wish the shoe had was a more aggressive heel. and the fact that they are black makes the get really hot in the sun |
| If you are willing to spend a little extra the Evolv Pontas, or the 5.10 galileo would be a good alternative. |
|
 Cred: 8 | | nice and comfy all day long.
not any noticeable stretch.
good starter shoe.
a tight fit haven't had any kind of slipping.
|
| can and will smell really bad-use shoe balls.
rubber around big toe will wear away after a while. |
|
 Cred: 29 | | As a beginner climber I got these shoes based on the rental shoes at the local gym. They are not the comfiest shoes but good all around shoe. great toe and heel and very reliable. This shoe will not stretch out like leather shoes will so it is built tight like a climbing shoe should be for your shoe size. |
|
 Cred: 9 | | Review by pundt1 on Mar. 03, 2012 | | A really decent shoe for beginner climbers. Does well in the gym |
| Not a very good outdoor shoe. High quality and made well but doesnt have the features needed to grip those tiny foot holds or dig into cracks |
|
 Cred: 264 | | Review by myname on Apr. 07, 2012 | | I have the lace version of this shoe (always been a fan of laces more). Solid all around shoe. Kind of a "Jack of All Trades, Master of None". |
|
 Cred: 11 | | Great beginner shoe. Excellent fit (you can feel comfortable in buying a shoe that doesn't fit too tightly from the start as they do not stretch too much) and comfort until you're ready to cram your feet into something more aggressive. Can't beat the price. |
| The rubber is pretty sticky, however, the edges wore down quickly. |
|
 Cred: 7 | | Review by ac398 on Mar. 06, 2013 | | good beginner shoe and gym shoe. edges well and if sized tight enough it becomes very precise. Cant go wrong for the price plus when you up grade you'll have a great pair of shoes to deep water solo in |
| heel does not fit well, like a bubble on your heel. Smell is awful compared to other shoes |
|
 Cred: 9 | | amazingly comfortable right out of the box. Great price and performance, and very durable. |
|
 Cred: 208 | | velcro allows for easy adjustments and putting on/ removal. they are very comfortable shoes. they are good for all around climbing |
| the sole isn't as firm as i want it to be sometimes |
|
 Cred: 20 | | i got them cheap at an REI scratch 'n dent sale. they need to be resoled, but they still grip well and fit great. |
|
 Cred: 18 | | excellent entry level climbing shoe and really not that bad all around regardless. velcro works well, soles are strong for the price. |
|
 Cred: 23 | | Low price, fairly comfortable. |
| Holes in the toe after ~4 months of 2-3 times/week indoor/light outdoor use. Also are uncomfortable to belay in. |
|
 Cred: 12137 | | Review by Troy on Feb. 13, 2008 | | Comfy, good performing all around shoe. The rubber is pretty good on it as well. |
|
 Cred: 12 | | if i had to pick another shoe, i would by far take the talon also made by evolv. But they're two different types of shoes, like comparing apples to oranges. |
|
 Cred: 5 | | Great grip on bottom for small footholds. I tried a pair on and i liked how well they gripped even the smallest nub on rock. |
| oddly shaped for most feet, too narrow in front, wide in back. It may just be my feet though. |
|
 Cred: 5 | | Great grip for smearing on the bottom. Solid toe grip with a nice point that doesn't kill your toes, but still can hit those toe chips on the wall well. |
| The rubber on the side of the shoe wears off fairly quickly which inhibits edging (BUT only a little.) |
| 5.10 VMile (price and quality)
La Sportiva Mantis (price and quality) |
|
 Cred: 40569 | | Review by marks on Oct. 19, 2007 | | Comfortable shoe that performs well. Highly recommended for a long / all day shoe. |
|
 Cred: 60 | | Best shoes I've ever had right out of the box. |
| Will roll a little bit after they've been broken in |
|
 Cred: 21 | | This is a very comfortable shoe if fitted correctly, it doesn't stretch, so don't undersize. |
|
 Cred: 3 | | Stetched 1/4 size after 10 pitches. Thin and sensative but they're holding up nicely. |
|
 Cred: 52 | | heel hooks are almost impossible |
|
 Cred: 9 | | comfortable, good shoe for beginner climbers. |
|
 Cred: 3 | | not as good as my la sportivas |
|
 Cred: 0 | | Excellent beginners shoe. |
|
|