Awesome offset shape locks into not only pin scars, but many cracks. I prefer them over regular taper nuts for Yosemite style granite. Absolutely essential on many big wall routes. Cable recesses into the head. Color coded for quick ID. Mirrors the original HB aluminum offset taper.
the head slides down the cable. I've only used mine on about 15 pitches so far, so this might just be because they're new. It's annoying when a big wire loop is hanging out that can catch things.
The old HB aluminum offsets if you can find them on eBay. Otherwise it's these or none. They've got the market cornered on large offset nuts.
I have the original HB Offsets, but I'm stoked that DMM came thru and started making these again. These offsets fit like a glove in 90% of placements - especially sandstone (including Eldo "sandstone"), and groovy granite. Great for aid climbing.
The DMM ones do have issues with the head sliding.
Used them on a new route this weekend in Red Rock. Along with the Peanuts were essential in protecting a hard to protect pitch. Great add-on to a standard rack.
