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Black Diamond Express Ice Screws

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Black Diamond Express Ice Screws
Read 28 Reviews | Add a Review

Cred: 14873
Review by climbhigher on Oct. 25, 2007

Good Features
 These screws start exceptionally well the teeth just bite into the ice. The knobs allow faster screwing ability then the regular express screws but not the fastest out there. The 5 lengths of the screw are nice which gives you many options depending on your type of climbing area. They are fairly light weight for their length compared to some of the more complex screw models out there.
Bad Features
 Other screws will get into the ice quicker then these screws, the knob is slightly hard to grasp while wearing gloves. That may be alleviated with the introduction of the new model we will see. The small clip in hole is also a pain sometimes.
Recommended Alternatives
 Grivel 360 will give you a nicer handle and more advantage when placing those long screws.
Read 28 Reviews | Add a Review
Ice Screw Test
Black Diamond Express Ice Screws Complete Test Results.
Initiation Force
Rotation Test
Racking
Handle
All results are between 0 and 10. 10 is the best. 0 is the worst.
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Average of 7 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Mountain Gear$57.95
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Average of 7 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. REI$57.95-58.95
Average of 12 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Backcountry$57.95-58.95
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Average of 3 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. US Outdoor Store$57.95-58.95
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Average of 2 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. E-OMC$57.95
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Average of 5 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. EMS$57.95-58.95
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Be the first to review this retailer and we will send you free Spadout.com stickers. Click here to add a review. Fontana Sports$57.99
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Average of 1 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Backcountry Gear$58.95
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Average of 7 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Gear Express$48.50
black diamond 16 cm express ice screw -

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Average Review: 4.46 out of 5 (28 Reviews)

Cred: 14873
Review by climbhigher on Oct. 25, 2007

Good Features
 These screws start exceptionally well the teeth just bite into the ice. The knobs allow faster screwing ability then the regular express screws but not the fastest out there. The 5 lengths of the screw are nice which gives you many options depending on your type of climbing area. They are fairly light weight for their length compared to some of the more complex screw models out there.
Bad Features
 Other screws will get into the ice quicker then these screws, the knob is slightly hard to grasp while wearing gloves. That may be alleviated with the introduction of the new model we will see. The small clip in hole is also a pain sometimes.
Recommended Alternatives
 Grivel 360 will give you a nicer handle and more advantage when placing those long screws.

Cred: 1404
Review by Keese on Dec. 19, 2007

Good Features
 They rack well, they burn into ice, and they are great. And that was the old version of them. The newer (white hangers) seem to be that much better. The screw of choice for most ice climbers. Not quite as easy to get in as Grivels but much better racking. Also bruised hands have been known to result from banging the hanger around that last turn.

Cred: 2419
Review by livextreme41 on Dec. 17, 2008

Good Features
 start well, bury fast, hold solid. 2 holes on the hanger is prime for belays. rack very easy.
Bad Features
 nope
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl laser sonic screws are not better for leading, but following, with a rotating hanger they are much easier to remove.

Cred: 559
Review by jonnymtman on Mar. 10, 2009

Good Features
 Teeth bight quick, easy to rack, strong and quick to screw in and out. I have used Grivel 360s, Petzl lazers, DMMs and crazy ti russian screws and the are the best. Grivels fit into holes a tad bit better but not enough to buy them. Petzl hanger fits over buldges and they can stay clipped in while removing by messes me up. The DDM feels good in my hand to start placement but have no quick way to spin in.
Bad Features
 cost.

Cred: 398
Review by slevasse on Nov. 05, 2008

Good Features
 I think these are the standard that ice screws are measured by! They rack great, start easily, go in fast, and the new silver hanger keeps the sun from melting them out on the sunny days!
Bad Features
 None that I know of yet

Cred: 65
Review by Playrugby88 on Oct. 27, 2008

Good Features
 fast and strong screws, start easy dont crack the ice, rack well much better than the Grivels, maybe a little slower but rack better and i trust them more.
Bad Features
 None that i can think of.
Recommended Alternatives
 none

Cred: 19
Review by fb_569002937 on Jan. 25, 2008

Good Features
 Like the Camalots, every ice climber should have a few of these in their quiver....

Cred: 21
Review by fb_79302166 on Feb. 06, 2008

Good Features
 AMAZING!!! Quick start, quick screw, minimal cracking.

Cred: 169
Review by skillet on Sep. 04, 2008

Good Features
 the only screws i use, sharp!

Cred: 60
Review by fb_627344676 on Apr. 16, 2008

Good Features
 Sweet screws. quick and dirty.

Cred: 60
Review by superguide on Nov. 28, 2008

Good Features
 Better than my non-express screws.

Cred: 83
Review by brettbrown on Sep. 10, 2009

Good Features
 Racks better than Petzl (IMO).

Cred: 3
Review by fb_43800727 on Jan. 21, 2008

Recommended Alternatives
 buy Grivel over these
Beyond Spadout
Backcountry11 Reviews
Mountain Gear1 Review
REI3 Reviews
Image
NameExpress Ice Screws
BrandBlack Diamond
Lowest Price39.95
Weight (g)125
MaterialSteel
Diameter (mm)N/A
Length (cm)10

From E-OMC:
The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw is the easiest and fastest placing ice screws on the planet, the Express ice screws have a quicker bite than a pissed- off pit bull thanks to their sublime tooth geometry. The Express screws feature a tapered tube where the teeth cut a hole just larger than the tube itself, for less friction and faster placements. The foldable speed-drive knobs are color-coded for quick length identification and offer uninterrupted 360-degree motion. Stainless steel hangers with secondary clip-in points for belay organization are lighter than previous models, reduce melt-out on sunny routes and won’t rust. Express ice screws are built in five lengths to accommodate a variety of ice conditions. CE-certified. Patented.
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From US Outdoor Store:
The easiest and fastest placing ice screws on the planet, the Express ice screws have a quicker bite than a pissed- off pit bull thanks to their sublime tooth geometry. The Express screws feature a tapered tube where the teeth cut a hole just larger than the tube itself, for less friction and faster placements. The foldable speed-drive knobs are color-coded for quick length identification and offer uninterrupted 360-degree motion. Stainless steel hangers with secondary clip-in points for belay organization are lighter than previous models, reduce melt-out on sunny routes and wont rust. Express ice screws are built in five lengths to accommodate a variety of ice conditions.
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From Mountain Gear:
The Black Diamond Express Ice Screw requires less placement effort, thanks to highly polished, smooth interior surfaces and finely tuned thread geometry. The double-clip hanger offers convenience at belays and has a foldable, speed-drive handle for fast placements.
Features:
  • Patented taper and patented retractable knobs allow for quick, uninterrupted motion during placement

Specifications:
  • Screw Strength : 10 kN
  • Hanger Strength: 22 kN
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From REI:
Often regarded as one of the fastest and most easily placed ice screws around, the Black Diamond Express ice screw just got even better.
  • Redesigned tooth geometry bites into ice for quick and easy placement
  • New, large crank knob is easier to grab than on previous models yet still offers uninterrupted 360° motion without the use of an ice tool
  • Foldable, color-coded crank provides quick length identification
  • New stainless-steel hanger is lighter than previous models, won't rust and reduces melt-out on sunny routes
  • Large second clip-in point helps manage belay organization
  • Was this useful? Yes | No
Image
NameExpress Ice ScrewsTurbo Ice ScrewsLaser Sonic Ice Screw360 Ice Screwslaser ice screw
BrandBlack DiamondBlack DiamondPetzlGrivelPetzl
Lowest Price47.536.554.9556.0644.89
Weight (g)125131149156115
MaterialSteelSteelSteelSteelSteel
Diameter (mm)N/A12.7N/AN/AN/A
Length (cm)1013101221

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