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Climbing Gear > Belay and Rappel Devices > Tube Style Belay Devices

Black Diamond ATC XP

Weight89 g
Max Diameter (mm)8.1

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Black Diamond ATC XP
4.4 out of 5 based on 49 user reviews.

Cred: 12137
Review by Troy on Apr. 11, 2007
I find the dual friction modes is great for rock gyms with varying rope diameters. It can handle bigger ropes w/o a problem on the smooth side while still maintaining a firm grip on thinner ropes on the high friction toothed side.
A little heavier then a classic ATC, but not much.
If you want something lighter, the ATC is sweet. If you want something that locks when belaying a second, the ATC guide is pretty awesome, but significantly bigger and heavier.

Cred: 40569
Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007
This is the classic ATC with the dual friction mode. If you have a need for the dual friction mode (extended rappel or heavy climbing partners) this might be worth the extra cost / complexity.

Cred: 601
Review by [email protected] on Jul. 29, 2009
Great belay device. The dual friction capabilities come in handy for varying rope sizes while belaying and rappelling. Dissipates heat well too.
Not much. Sometimes smells like cat pee when rappelling, but that could be the rope. :)
BD ATC guide

Review by Facebook User on Nov. 08, 2010
This ATC is great for rappelling and belaying. I've rapped with both this device and BD's original ATC and can really feel a difference.
If you're looking for a slightly cheaper alternative... go with the original ATC by Black Diamond.

Cred: 1321
Review by MikePB on Feb. 27, 2011
The added friction really helps when using some thin ropes or if your rope is wet. Since using this I have not picked up my standard ATC.
a bit heavier and not quite as smooth lowering as a standard ATC.

Cred: 584
Review by agoldstein on Mar. 01, 2011
This thing is bomber. Probably don't need high friction mode, since I am always the heavier climber, but it doesn't hurt to have it.
Sure, could be lighter, but if you are only gym climbing get the ATC sport.
Any of the BD ATC family

Cred: 27
Review by hoonatron on Jan. 09, 2008
For its cost, if you belay people heavier than you, then its great. Im only 125lbs and i usually belay people that are around 170 so the extra friction helps me keep them on take with more ease.
The extra friction sometimes makes it a bit more jerkier when you let your partner descend in top roping. Not the smoothest of belay devices.
GriGri is great if price isnt a concern.

Cred: 311
Review by fb_894465643 on Feb. 11, 2008
Just coming from the old school ATC, this is a huge improvement. The wire is much thicker, and the teeth are a nice addition when the person you're belaying is a bit heavier and you don't want to fight rope slippage.

Cred: 266
Review by somasmith on Jul. 07, 2008
Simple! Simple! Simple! If you are new to this PLEASE, for your partners safety, learn to use the ATC safely. This device is tough, durable, easy on the rope and a great value.
None that I can see.
Once you get the hang of the ATC get a SUM device by Faders. It is a wonderful thing!

Cred: 308
Review by ericswanson on Feb. 05, 2009
It's saved my life on multiple occasions. Dual friction is nice for varying rope lengths.
The high friction mode can be a wee bit harsh on ropes.
Petzl Reverso 3. The smoothest belay device I have used.

Cred: 203
Review by snowboard1291 on Dec. 06, 2011
i love the multi friction nodes. It gives you much more control when you are repelling
with the multi friction nodes, the cable connecting it to your carabiner can get caught when repelling. if it does happen, the rubber coating gets rubbed off really fast and will drastically reduce the life of the ATC
what if, instead of a rubber coated cable in the middle, have either 2 cables located on the outside or instead of cables, replace them with a solid metal piece on either side?

Cred: 240
Review by Eclipze on Jan. 12, 2014
Durable, feeds smoothly even on thicker ropes, lightweight, dual friction modes gives versatility to how you Belay, great for the gym and all around Climbing. Awesome for the price
None really that I have noticed, the ATC Guide is simply best all around
ATC Guide

Cred: 21
Review by jimjuliem on Apr. 07, 2008
Duel control (two ways to rig with different friction due to teeth/no teeth) is the big asset on this devise. I purchased it because I needed better friction on my skinny 9 mm rope. This works fine. It is light weight and seems durable. Price is right. Simple to use.
The finish on the outside was rough looking. Only a cosmetic problem.
DMM V Twin is similar and just slightly heavier and made of stainless steel so it should be even more durable.

Cred: 1073
Review by scottydo on Sep. 02, 2008
Solid. Great friction on the friction side.
The friction side is a little too much when rappelling ones self.
ATC (unless you want the friction)

Cred: 2509
Review by livextreme41 on Jul. 06, 2009
great variable friction, and easy feeding
heavy, if you are looking at this, consider the atc guide for a tad more weight and many more possibilities.

Cred: 9
Review by rabidrabbit2727 on Mar. 15, 2011
The option of using the side with more friction is a great thing to have in case you want it. I find that, climbing at my local college rock wall, it is great to use on the varying rope sizes.
It is more expensive, but is a nice option between the alternatives.
Either the traditional ATC or the ATC Guide are both great alternatives. If you are absolutely sure you won't want the Guide, make this your first purchase and you won't regret it.

Cred: 19
Review by fb_840815312 on Jan. 30, 2008
Very good, provides quite a bit of friction when belaying the heavier people or taking an unexpected fall

Cred: 188
Review by jacurtis on Jun. 29, 2008
Multiple friction modes are very nice since you never know how much friction will be helpful at different times.
Heavier than normal ATC

Cred: 270
Review by jaredmartin35 on Feb. 14, 2011
great ATC. for sport climbing i would recommend a gri gri, but if you're a gri gri denier.. the ATC XP is the way to go. it has saved my friends many times.

Cred: 32
Review by fb_676892616 on Mar. 21, 2008
High or low friction, I like the versatility of this ATC, it works for what I know and need.

Cred: 32
Review by fb_587152591 on Apr. 15, 2008
works ok
it is a crap device that wears trough very fast end then starts to fuck up your rope
Kong chouy

Cred: 24
Review by Hirvimaki on Jul. 03, 2008
I've used it with an 8, a 9 and an 11 rope and it works great. Easy to load and runs smooth with no stop locking.

Cred: 21
Review by Huge3783 on Oct. 28, 2008
My wife has no problem belaying me despite a large weight diffrence.
Not as smooth as I would like in when I am using the smooth edge.

Cred: 420
Review by San Dog Scotty on Aug. 15, 2008
Works great. The friction side really does it's job.

Cred: 4460
Review by jonnymtman on Mar. 10, 2009
Handles smaller ropes, smooth action
isn't the BD guide

Cred: 53
Review by fb_5814846 on Jan. 21, 2008
frozen ropes
small people

Cred: 12
Review by fb_504763858 on Feb. 11, 2008
A nice improvement on the ATC, allows for a bit more options depending on the way you set it up.

Cred: 189
Review by Jazzejohn on Aug. 06, 2008
Haven't found the need for high friction side yet but its nice to know its there.

Cred: 345
Review by MLSyring on Sep. 06, 2011
Love the dual friction. Looks pretty BA too. Great for cleaning routes.

Cred: 8
Review by rayjkline on Oct. 28, 2013
What can I say... It is light weight and perfectly functional. The classic ATC with a bit more.

Cred: 23
Review by fb_43200129 on Feb. 26, 2008
ATC guide, reverso

Cred: 46
Review by fb_866120310 on Apr. 04, 2008
great for gym climbing

Cred: 24
Review by dvsbenz on Apr. 10, 2008
high friction and low friction side

Cred: 16
Review by fb_168301493 on Apr. 14, 2008
Good friction for rappelling.

Cred: 64
Review by fb_54603090 on May. 12, 2008
Excellent friction.

Cred: 60
Review by Jon Cannon on Aug. 13, 2008
Great friction for braking.

Cred: 30
Review by ericaw on Jun. 01, 2011
Belays wonderfully, doesn't heat up to much

Cred: 50
Review by SPADRAGON on Sep. 07, 2011
sleek but durable design

Cred: 11
Review by madrock super loco on Feb. 25, 2008
Sturdy and good grip

Cred: 2
Review by atc420 on Aug. 31, 2011

lightweight, strong, dependable.

Cred: 22
Review by fb_73201981 on Feb. 28, 2008
Great product

Cred: 29
Review by Ryan Moody on Apr. 10, 2008

Cred: 38
Review by fb_590200209 on May. 20, 2008

Cred: 6
Review by booster III on Jun. 03, 2008

Cred: 1
Review by fb_626155706 on Jun. 16, 2008
more stopping

Cred: 4
Review by Brad Liew on Jul. 05, 2008
no complains

Cred: 68
Review by Grivel G12 on Aug. 08, 2008
Great Friction

Cred: 0
Review by frankyyanky on Aug. 14, 2009

Cred: 6
Review by fb_562035226 on Jan. 18, 2008
works good
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