| Add ReviewAverage Review: 4.44
Cred: 4031 | Review by Troy
Good Features
I find the dual friction modes is great for rock gyms with varying rope diameters. It can handle bigger ropes w/o a problem on the smooth side while still maintaining a firm grip on thinner ropes on the high friction toothed side.
Bad Features
A little heavier then a classic ATC, but not much.
Recommended Alternatives
If you want something lighter, the ATC is sweet. If you want something that locks when belaying a second, the ATC guide is pretty awesome, but significantly bigger and heavier. |
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Cred: 4919 | Review by marks
Good Features
This is the classic ATC with the dual friction mode. If you have a need for the dual friction mode (extended rappel or heavy climbing partners) this might be worth the extra cost / complexity. |
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Cred: 263 | Review by somasmith
Good Features
Simple! Simple! Simple! If you are new to this PLEASE, for your partners safety, learn to use the ATC safely. This device is tough, durable, easy on the rope and a great value.
Bad Features
None that I can see.
Recommended Alternatives
Once you get the hang of the ATC get a SUM device by Faders. It is a wonderful thing! |
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Cred: 15 | Review by hoonatron
Good Features
For its cost, if you belay people heavier than you, then its great. Im only 125lbs and i usually belay people that are around 170 so the extra friction helps me keep them on take with more ease.
Bad Features
The extra friction sometimes makes it a bit more jerkier when you let your partner descend in top roping. Not the smoothest of belay devices.
Recommended Alternatives
GriGri is great if price isnt a concern. |
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Cred: 62 | Review by fb_894465643
Good Features
Just coming from the old school ATC, this is a huge improvement. The wire is much thicker, and the teeth are a nice addition when the person you're belaying is a bit heavier and you don't want to fight rope slippage. |
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Cred: 14 | Review by jimjuliem
Good Features
Duel control (two ways to rig with different friction due to teeth/no teeth) is the big asset on this devise. I purchased it because I needed better friction on my skinny 9 mm rope. This works fine. It is light weight and seems durable. Price is right. Simple to use.
Bad Features
The finish on the outside was rough looking. Only a cosmetic problem.
Recommended Alternatives
DMM V Twin is similar and just slightly heavier and made of stainless steel so it should be even more durable. |
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Cred: 195 | Review by scottydo
Good Features
Solid. Great friction on the friction side.
Bad Features
The friction side is a little too much when rappelling ones self.
Recommended Alternatives
ATC (unless you want the friction) |
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Cred: 19 | Review by fb_840815312
Good Features
Very good, provides quite a bit of friction when belaying the heavier people or taking an unexpected fall |
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Cred: 32 | Review by fb_676892616
Good Features
High or low friction, I like the versatility of this ATC, it works for what I know and need.
Bad Features
hummmm...
Recommended Alternatives
again...hummm... |
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Cred: 32 | Review by fb_587152591
Good Features
works ok
Bad Features
it is a crap device that wears trough very fast end then starts to fuck up your rope
Recommended Alternatives
Kong chouy |
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Cred: 38 | Review by jacurtis
Good Features
Multiple friction modes are very nice since you never know how much friction will be helpful at different times.
Bad Features
Heavier than normal ATC |
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Cred: 24 | Review by Hirvimaki
Good Features
I've used it with an 8, a 9 and an 11 rope and it works great. Easy to load and runs smooth with no stop locking. |
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Cred: 21 | Review by Huge3783
Good Features
My wife has no problem belaying me despite a large weight diffrence.
Bad Features
Not as smooth as I would like in when I am using the smooth edge.
Recommended Alternatives
- |
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Cred: 12 | Review by fb_504763858
Good Features
A nice improvement on the ATC, allows for a bit more options depending on the way you set it up. |
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Cred: 53 | Review by fb_5814846
Good Features
frozen ropes
Bad Features
small people |
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Cred: 84 | Review by San Dog Scotty
Good Features
Works great. The friction side really does it's job.
Bad Features
None. |
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Cred: 38 | Review by Jazzejohn
Good Features
Haven't found the need for high friction side yet but its nice to know its there. |
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Cred: 24 | Review by dvsbenz
Good Features
high friction and low friction side
Bad Features
none |
Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No | Image |  | | Name | ATC XP | | Brand | Black Diamond | | Lowest Price | 17.99 | | Type | Tube Style (Non-Blocking) | | Weight (g) | 89 | | Rope Size Min (mm) | 7.7 | | Rope Size Max (mm) | 11 | | Dual Rope Rappels | Yes | | Dual Friction | Yes |
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From EMS:
An all-around belay device with variable friction setting. - High-force multiplier means less effort to break falls and rappels
- Extended control web reduces kinking and damage to rope
- High function made for greater control and holding power
- Regular friction made for normal climbing and rappelling situations
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From US Outdoor Store:
- Black Diamonds new ATC-XP is a true variable-friction belay and rappel device. Whats this mean in plain English? Well, with the ATC-XP, a climber can control how much friction they want while belaying or rapping, which in turn means greater control with multiple rope diameters. Ice climbing with an 8.1-mm rope? Use the ATC-XP in high-friction mode, pulling the rope over the ATC-XPs contoured teeth. Abseiling with a fuzzy 11-mm down a granite slab? Use the device in regular-friction mode. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces kinking. An added bonus is the thick rope-bearing radii of the ATC-XP which means ropes wear less and last longer.
- Belay/rappel device with exceptional holding power
- Great for use with ropes of different diameters-8.1â11 mm
- Thick rope-bearing radii reduce rope wear
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From Mountain Gear:
Offering one third more holding power than the original ATC, the Black Diamond ATC- XP is variable-friction device that retains the ATC trademark smoothness while providing exceptional catching prowess. Features: - Cleated grooves enhance control when belaying or rappelling, and provides unmatched precision with varied rope diameters
- Extended central web reduces kinking and maintains proper rope orientation, while an increased rope radius adds to durability
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From Als Sports:
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay DeviceA true variable-friction device, the ATC-XP maintains the silky-smooth feeding of the ATC but ups the braking power. For belaying and rappelling with 7.7-11 millimeter ropes, its designed with a smooth low friction side and a high friction side with v-shaped grooves for three times more friction. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces rope kinking. Features: Was this useful? Yes | No |
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