Stats| Weight | 102 g | | Max Diameter (mm) | 11 |
| Black Diamond ATC Guide
4.8 out of 5 based on 91 user reviews.
Cred: 40569 | | Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007 |
| This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue. |
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Cred: 1451 | | Review by Keese on Nov. 07, 2007 |
| Autoblocking, much easier lowering of an autoblocked second than the Reverso, wider selection of rope sizes than the Reverso, non rigid cable, teeth for improved gripping |
| umm ???? doesnt come in the color green? |
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Cred: 555 | | Really beefy construction. The release hole is big enough to get a small biner in to use as a handle. Cheeper than the new reverso. Won't sharpen up like the old reverse. |
| A little heavy, but I don't really count grams on belay devices - it's not like you're carying 50 as you are with biners.
On my 10.5 it's a little hard to feed when belaying the 2nd, but on my friend's 10.2 it's a lot better. |
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Cred: 594 | | More solid than the original reverso, because it is one continuous piece of metal. Doesn't form any sharp edges with wear like the old reverso can.
Hands-free direct anchor belay is very convenient. |
| Sometimes hard to pull larger diameter ropes through on direct anchor belays.
A smidgen on the heavy side, but it'll last a long time. |
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Cred: 556 | | Well designed and cheap product. Great of belaying from above with the device locking off itself through auto block. a cheaper alternative to the Petzl Reverso 3. |
| Repelling through the friction end can be a little slow, but the up side is the safety. |
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Cred: 584 | | Love all of the options with this. Can't wait to put it to use. Autoblock, high friction mode, autblock lowering release point, bomber construction |
| Heavy, but necessary if you want all of these features. |
| The 2011 was just released with holes drilled to lighten it up. Buy a 2010 or earlier for great prices all over the interwebs. |
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Cred: 1306 | | Review by MikePB on Jul. 13, 2011 |
| This works great for belaying leader and top roping as well as repelling. You can use it for double ropes. The guide autoblock just works ok. |
| The autoblock feature is cool, but it has its drawbacks. First it is hard to just pull the rope through, you have to feed and take, using botj hands. Secondly if you want to give a second slack when the rope is under load it is a bit of a pain to release. |
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Cred: 289 | | Best belay device for multi pitch climbing period. More size range on acceptable ropes than the petzl reverso, and it also has a nifty hole to attach some cord for lowering a second in the need should arise. |
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Cred: 2509 | | dual friction and autoblocking. works great. Does what it's supposed to do and does it well. |
| weight...it's a bit heavy, and holds quite a bit of heat if you are on long rappels. Works best with larger diameter ropes |
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Cred: 248 | | Review by Shifu on Jul. 06, 2011 |
| Does everything the Reverso does while being more durable. I prefer it over other locking-assist devices like the Grigri or Cinch because it weighs less while doing more. Nuff said. |
| Kind of a workout to bring up a follower in autoblock mode on any rope thicker than 10.2 mm. |
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Cred: 180 | | I love my ATC guide. The one pictured here is the older version. BD has made them lighter now. The gate of a big biner can go through the large hole, which matters more than you think. |
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Cred: 18 | | Review by Niles on Dec. 05, 2011 |
| This device is great for multipitch climbs. I like the variable friction as well as the autoblocking when you are belaying the 2nd. I like these more traditional ATC belay device over things like the GriGri because there is less to worry about breaking. Great belay device. |
| There isn't much I dont like about this belay device except for one issue I had is when lowering a 2nd so that, say they can start climbing again, you need run the rope through a 2nd belay like a munter. It is an incredibly easy way to drop a climber when releasing the autoblocking property. |
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Cred: 1088 | | It works. Catches rope well, consistent performance with a number of different size ropes, easily works with a number of different belay setups. |
| Wow is it bulky. Only get one of these if you plan to belay from the top. But all guide style atc devices are bulky and heavy... |
| Sport/gym climbers should get something like the Petzl verso. That's my go to belay device these days. |
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Cred: 476 | | Very easy to use. Allows a second to be belayed off the anchor and the added small hole allows you to unlock the second once weight is added. |
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Cred: 4460 | | I wish I hadn't bought all the other belay devices I have sitting in my basement. My favorite piece of equipment and always with me. |
| could be lighter and gets hot on long abzeil |
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Cred: 1364 | | Great stopping power and lots of friction, but the rope slides well through when you need. Made really well and very durable |
| Quite honestly, I can't think of any |
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Cred: 685 | | I like the ability to auto lock when your partner is following up multi pitch routes |
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Cred: 844 | | Great device. Works smooth, stops strong and does it's job great. Its a sign of a great piece of equipment when everyone else's new devices start looking strikingly similar. |
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Cred: 24 | | Does absolutely everything belay, rappel, autoblock and can be made-shift into a progress capture device for a pulley system or for emergency ascending |
| little on the weighty side but is more than compensated by its versatility |
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Cred: 17 | | I like the dual friction option and the rigid loop. I think it's a good piece of equipment for the price. |
| As noted in some of the other reviews, it's a bit snug with a 10.5 rope. The weight hasn't been an issue for me. |
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Cred: 218 | | Bomb proof, Wears WAY better than reversos, if you have to have just ONE belay device this is it. |
| Sure the reverso 4 is lighter but I'd rather have a longs wearing. Elat device than drop a few paper clips of weight. |
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Cred: 8 | | Review by jimmyw on Nov. 16, 2007 |
| Very smooth, the teeth work great for heavier climbers. |
| Too much grip when trying to rap |
| Normal Atc or figure 8 for raps but for belays you cant beat it |
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Cred: 150 | | its a all in one devise, If you are doing a multi-pitch it is a must have. Great for belaying from an anchor |
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Cred: 360 | | Review by iwish on Oct. 26, 2011 |
| Simple, can be used with a bunch of different rope diameters and can be used with or without serrations. |
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Cred: 2643 | | Best multipitch belay device out there. Its pretty much a staple in the trad and multipitch world. A classic |
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Cred: 30 | | Review by cscolt on Mar. 18, 2008 |
| Auto-block mode and Great friction. This bad boy is a great addition as a main belay device, and its tough as nails. |
| Too heavy for use as a backup, |
| Petzl Reverso, Camp Ovo belay plate, Munter hitch. |
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Cred: 38 | | Best device I've ever used.
Great grip.
Reverses for the smoothest rappel ever!
Solid construction. |
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Cred: 36 | | Versatile e.g double rope use, adjustable use according to rope thickness and slickness. |
| I've never used the guide function, so no functional addition for me. |
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Cred: 1073 | | Just got this but it seems super solid and very handy |
| A little on the heavy side compared to the regular ATC |
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Cred: 426 | | Great for simul climbing or all around ATC. Works the rope nicely. Gets a good grip when needed. |
| I also like the Trango Cinch, but the guide is a standard piece. |
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Cred: 120 | | solid design, friction mode delivers- |
| none except i can't use this at my local gym b/c the ropes generally are too thick there- |
| have only used for belaying- |
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Cred: 27 | | Smooth operation and easily belays a second in autoblock mode. Good friction for belaying a leader as well. |
| None, the reverso3 is a hair lighter but I've never used it to compare. |
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Cred: 9 | | Excellent friction on the grooved side. Great for hanging belays and multi-pitch climbing. |
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Cred: 17 | | Review by jman3 on Mar. 03, 2011 |
| Great for belaying second off of anchor, autoblocking feature is nice. |
| heavy, new model has less material |
| new model of same belay device with hollow sides |
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Cred: 13 | | can top belay from anchors, easy set up, lightweight |
| lots of friction on rappels |
| grigri is always a go to for sport climbing and an 8 is great for rappels |
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Cred: 315 | | seems to be standard equipment, VERY versatile and can be used for than just top rope belaying; you should get one |
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Cred: 5 | | Review by K2sjb1 on Oct. 24, 2007 |
| I have been climbing for over two decades. I have used many, many belay devices from multiple manufacturers. This is my favorite so far because of the versitality and the auto lock off feature. |
| The only bad thing so far is that large assault type ropes will not work with this device. |
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Cred: 454 | | awesome versatility for slow or fast raps, anchor loop is very helpful |
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Cred: 815 | | Versatile, especially if you'll ever belay from above. |
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Cred: 60 | | Guide belay setting is awesome |
| Funky to figure out at first. |
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Cred: 601 | | Great design, versatile, dissipates heat well |
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Cred: 1096 | | My favorite mulit pitch device and ropes that are over 9.8 mm |
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Cred: 5 | | Very simple to use. This is probably the last belay device you ever really need to buy. Sure auto belay devices are nice but I don't think you can beat the simplicity and durability of one of these. The autoblock feature is great especially for belaying from the top or for lowering a second. |
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Cred: 1194 | | Review by bruton on Sep. 01, 2011 |
| Ridges hold larger loads and smaller ropes well.
Auto blocks great. |
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Cred: 102 | | Awesome for twins, doubles and belaying 2 clients at the same time |
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Cred: 5 | | -Auto Block
-Metal doesn't wear down
-Cheap
-Can handle thick and thin ropes |
| Only other thing it could do is belay for you! |
| Petzl reverso (but beware, they wear down fast) |
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Cred: 42 | | great multi-use belay devise |
| Petzl reverso, but the guide is better |
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Cred: 44 | | great belay device, autoblock mode |
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Cred: 22 | | great for multi uses. can be set up as an autolocker if you know how |
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Cred: 36 | | quite usefull and does well on any rope climb and diameter |
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Cred: 311 | | I like the ability to belay the second. |
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Cred: 12 | | auto-blocking for multi-pitch
high & low friction |
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Cred: 24 | | high friction and low friction side. loop for belaying from the top |
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Cred: 28 | | Two friction settings and multiple applications. |
| A bit heavier than the ATC. |
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Cred: 18 | | Easy feeding, great breaking with the V-grooves, can be used as auto-block |
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Cred: 9 | | Light weight, works great, easy to setup, all the modes are super |
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Cred: 5 | | I loved it! Took it through tons of canyons in southern Utah for canyoneering! Quick, easy, foolproof. |
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Cred: 238 | | the loops on either side to make belaying off the rappel easier. |
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Cred: 25 | | Great all-around belay device |
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Cred: 3 | | Feels sturdy. Cheaper and accepts a larger range of ropes than the reverso. |
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Cred: 31 | | A must have for trad climbers! No other ATC works as well as this device. There is no match! |
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Cred: 212 | | Great for alpine/multi-pitch climbs. |
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Cred: 2338 | | Great belay device. Absolutely no negatives |
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Cred: 12 | | Get your reverso out of my atc, get your atc out of my reverso |
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Cred: 99 | | Auto-block, smooth belaying and easy catching, even with small mm ropes. |
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Cred: 73 | | Makes multi pitch belaying easy as pie |
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Cred: 27 | | Review by devin on Oct. 28, 2008 |
| Autoblock is useful but I find it a bit clumsy. |
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Cred: 5 | | Not enough bite on smaller ropes |
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Cred: 25 | | revirso...just kidding they suck |
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Cred: 32 | | The best belay device I've ever used |
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Cred: 169 | | best of the bunch! 'nuff said! |
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Cred: 332 | | All good. Great piece of gear. |
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