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Cred: 8094 | Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007
Good Features
This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Read 58 Reviews | Add a Review | |
Add ReviewAverage Review: 4.9
Cred: 8094 | Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007
Good Features
This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Cred: 1404 | Review by Keese on Nov. 07, 2007
Good Features
Autoblocking, much easier lowering of an autoblocked second than the Reverso, wider selection of rope sizes than the Reverso, non rigid cable, teeth for improved gripping
Bad Features
umm ???? doesnt come in the color green?
Recommended Alternatives
BUY THIS ONE! |
Cred: 555 | Review by rmcgibbo on Aug. 03, 2008
Good Features
Really beefy construction. The release hole is big enough to get a small biner in to use as a handle. Cheeper than the new reverso. Won't sharpen up like the old reverse.
Bad Features
A little heavy, but I don't really count grams on belay devices - it's not like you're carying 50 as you are with biners.
On my 10.5 it's a little hard to feed when belaying the 2nd, but on my friend's 10.2 it's a lot better.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Cred: 2382 | Review by livextreme41 on Dec. 17, 2008
Good Features
dual friction and autoblocking. works great. Does what it's supposed to do and does it well.
Bad Features
weight...it's a bit heavy, and holds quite a bit of heat if you are on long rappels. Works best with larger diameter ropes
Recommended Alternatives
reverso 3 |
Cred: 58 | Review by fb_29707558 on Jan. 21, 2008
Good Features
Best belay device for multi pitch climbing period. More size range on acceptable ropes than the petzl reverso, and it also has a nifty hole to attach some cord for lowering a second in the need should arise. |
Cred: 384 | Review by checkpositive001 on Nov. 06, 2008
Good Features
More solid than the original reverso, because it is one continuous piece of metal. Doesn't form any sharp edges with wear like the old reverso can.
Hands-free direct anchor belay is very convenient.
Bad Features
Sometimes hard to pull larger diameter ropes through on direct anchor belays.
A smidgen on the heavy side, but it'll last a long time.
Recommended Alternatives
regular ATC
petzl grigri |
Cred: 552 | Review by jonnymtman on Mar. 10, 2009
Good Features
I wish I hadn't bought all the other belay devices I have sitting in my basement. My favorite piece of equipment and always with me.
Bad Features
could be lighter and gets hot on long abzeil |
Cred: 202 | Review by scottydo on Sep. 02, 2008
Good Features
Just got this but it seems super solid and very handy
Bad Features
A little on the heavy side compared to the regular ATC |
Cred: 8 | Review by jimmyw on Nov. 16, 2007
Good Features
Very smooth, the teeth work great for heavier climbers.
Bad Features
Too much grip when trying to rap
Recommended Alternatives
Normal Atc or figure 8 for raps but for belays you cant beat it |
Cred: 95 | Review by fb_722631787 on Feb. 06, 2008
Good Features
Very easy to use. Allows a second to be belayed off the anchor and the added small hole allows you to unlock the second once weight is added.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Cred: 120 | Review by stevendo on Dec. 02, 2008
Good Features
solid design, friction mode delivers-
Bad Features
none except i can't use this at my local gym b/c the ropes generally are too thick there-
Recommended Alternatives
have only used for belaying- |
Cred: 30 | Review by cscolt on Mar. 18, 2008
Good Features
Auto-block mode and Great friction. This bad boy is a great addition as a main belay device, and its tough as nails.
Bad Features
Too heavy for use as a backup,
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso, Camp Ovo belay plate, Munter hitch. |
Cred: 38 | Review by fb_555560325 on Mar. 21, 2008
Good Features
Best device I've ever used.
Great grip.
Reverses for the smoothest rappel ever!
Solid construction. |
Cred: 36 | Review by fb_737207491 on May. 30, 2008
Good Features
Versatile e.g double rope use, adjustable use according to rope thickness and slickness.
Bad Features
I've never used the guide function, so no functional addition for me. |
Cred: 27 | Review by clheslin@sbcglobal.net on Jan. 13, 2009
Good Features
Smooth operation and easily belays a second in autoblock mode. Good friction for belaying a leader as well.
Bad Features
It's sort of heavy.
Recommended Alternatives
None, the reverso3 is a hair lighter but I've never used it to compare. |
Cred: 9 | Review by addictedclimber on Apr. 29, 2009
Good Features
Excellent friction on the grooved side. Great for hanging belays and multi-pitch climbing.
Bad Features
N/A
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Cred: 5 | Review by K2sjb1 on Oct. 24, 2007
Good Features
I have been climbing for over two decades. I have used many, many belay devices from multiple manufacturers. This is my favorite so far because of the versitality and the auto lock off feature.
Bad Features
The only bad thing so far is that large assault type ropes will not work with this device. |
Cred: 376 | Review by eddiemack on Sep. 23, 2008
Good Features
Great for simul climbing or all around ATC. Works the rope nicely. Gets a good grip when needed.
Bad Features
none
Recommended Alternatives
I also like the Trango Cinch, but the guide is a standard piece. |
Cred: 42 | Review by fb_38400292 on Jan. 21, 2008
Good Features
great multi-use belay devise
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl reverso, but the guide is better |
Cred: 60 | Review by Jon Cannon on Aug. 13, 2008
Good Features
Guide belay setting is awesome
Bad Features
Funky to figure out at first. |
Cred: 163 | Review by climbandkayak on May. 11, 2008
Good Features
Versatile, especially if you'll ever belay from above. |
Cred: 93 | Review by climbercam on Feb. 20, 2008
Good Features
Auto-block, smooth belaying and easy catching, even with small mm ropes.
Bad Features
None.
Recommended Alternatives
None. |
Cred: 48 | Review by jciccotti on Feb. 26, 2008
Good Features
the loops on either side to make belaying off the rappel easier. |
Cred: 91 | Review by fb_12711439 on Mar. 21, 2008
Good Features
awesome versatility for slow or fast raps, anchor loop is very helpful |
Cred: 73 | Review by forsakenclimber on Apr. 28, 2008
Good Features
Makes multi pitch belaying easy as pie
Bad Features
Hard to give slack. |
Cred: 102 | Review by Delta V on Sep. 25, 2008
Good Features
Awesome for twins, doubles and belaying 2 clients at the same time |
Cred: 12 | Review by fb_504763858 on Feb. 11, 2008
Good Features
Get your reverso out of my atc, get your atc out of my reverso |
Cred: 22 | Review by fb_73201981 on Feb. 28, 2008
Good Features
great for multi uses. can be set up as an autolocker if you know how
Bad Features
heavy |
Cred: 36 | Review by wild country on Mar. 23, 2008
Good Features
quite usefull and does well on any rope climb and diameter |
Cred: 12 | Review by wrongfloor on Apr. 08, 2008
Good Features
auto-blocking for multi-pitch
high & low friction
Bad Features
heavy |
Cred: 24 | Review by dvsbenz on Apr. 10, 2008
Good Features
high friction and low friction side. loop for belaying from the top
Bad Features
none |
Cred: 28 | Review by fb_34320665 on May. 22, 2008
Good Features
Two friction settings and multiple applications.
Bad Features
A bit heavier than the ATC. |
Cred: 27 | Review by devin on Oct. 28, 2008
Good Features
Autoblock is useful but I find it a bit clumsy.
Recommended Alternatives
Reverso 3 |
Cred: 18 | Review by climberboy123 on Mar. 23, 2009
Good Features
Easy feeding, great breaking with the V-grooves, can be used as auto-block |
Cred: 169 | Review by skillet on Sep. 04, 2008
Good Features
best of the bunch! 'nuff said! |
Cred: 44 | Review by fb_1568880112 on Jan. 23, 2008
Good Features
great belay device, autoblock mode
Bad Features
a touch heavy |
Cred: 62 | Review by fb_894465643 on Apr. 02, 2008
Good Features
I like the ability to belay the second. |
Cred: 43 | Review by fb_5216704 on Jun. 13, 2008
Good Features
Breaks like no other |
Cred: 25 | Review by ethatch on Jan. 18, 2008
Good Features
incredible
Recommended Alternatives
revirso...just kidding they suck |
Cred: 17 | Review by Rico Suave on Mar. 20, 2008
Good Features
super crazy awesome |
Cred: 25 | Review by fb_10732529 on Apr. 02, 2008
Good Features
Great all-around belay device |
Cred: 32 | Review by fb_1068828154 on Apr. 15, 2008
Good Features
The best belay device I've ever used |
Cred: 27 | Review by DRoth on Jul. 27, 2008
Bad Features
Havent Found any yet |
Cred: 5 | Review by shawd01 on Sep. 25, 2008
Good Features
the best |
Cred: 6 | Review by Reed P on Jul. 11, 2008
Recommended Alternatives
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| Image |  | | Name | ATC Guide | | Brand | Black Diamond | | Lowest Price | 22.49 | | Type | Auto Blocking | | Weight (g) | 102 | | Rope Size Min (mm) | 7.7 | | Rope Size Max (mm) | 11 | | Dual Rope Rappels | Yes | | Dual Friction | Yes |
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From US Outdoor Store:
Description of Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device One device to do it all, the ATC-Guide offers maximum versatility. It has a smooth, regular friction side and, for twice the friction, a grooved side. When youre belaying from above, the âguide modeâ lets you bring up one or two seconding climbers with ease and control. For lowering, it has a small secondary hole that you can girth hitch for more leverage to release the device. Was this useful? Yes | No
From Backcountry:
The self-locking capability of the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device makes it an excellent choice when you cast off on multi-pitch trad, ice, and alpine climbs. The ATC Guidewinner of the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Awardbelays a leader just like any other tube-style device, but it can also be connected directly to your anchor to create a self-locking system when you're belaying one or two following climbers. This allows you to eat, drink, tie your shoes, and take pictures as you belay with confidence that your partners are completely safe. Its unique release point lets you lower a following climber when the ATC Guide is in self-locking mode, even if he's way heavier than you. The aggressive V-notch allows this belay device to work on ropes from 7.7 to 11mmeven when they're icy. Was this useful? Yes | No
From Mountain Gear:
The ATC Guide by Black Diamond is a full-function belay and rappel device with two friction options (regular or high friction) and a guide mode belays and lowers one or two seconding climbers. Features: - The dual-friction capabilities regulate the speed of your rappel or lower
- A full-strength anchor clip-in point is large enough to clear most locking-carabiner sleeves
- Small seconday hole for lowering lets you girth hitch a sling or thread a microstopper for more leverage
- Compatible with all climbing ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm
Specifications: - Weight: 3.6 ounces
- Material: Aluminum
Was this useful? Yes | No
From Rock Creek:
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a full function belay device with dual frictions belay and rappel modes and a Guide Mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls, plus you can lower a climber regardless of weight difference between climber and belayer, because of a unique release point built in to the unit. Was this useful? Yes | No |
| Image | |  |  | | Name | ATC Guide | Reversino Belay Device | Reverso Belay Device | | Brand | Black Diamond | Petzl | Petzl | | Lowest Price | 22.362 | 23.95 | 22.95 | | Type | Auto Blocking | Auto Blocking | Auto Blocking | | Weight (g) | 102 | 57⇓ | 80⇓ | | Rope Size Min (mm) | 7.7 | 7.5⇓ | 8⇑ | | Rope Size Max (mm) | 11 | 8.2⇓ | 11 | | Dual Rope Rappels | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Dual Friction | Yes | Yes | Yes |
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