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Black Diamond ATC Guide

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Black Diamond ATC Guide
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black diamond atc-guide belay device - black diamond
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black diamond atc-guide belay - s09
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Read 58 Reviews | Add a Review

Cred: 8094
Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007

Good Features
 This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso
Read 58 Reviews | Add a Review
Belay Device Friction Test
Black Diamond ATC Guide Complete Test Results.
8mm Rope
10mm Rope
11mm Rope
Weight
All results are between 0 and 10. 10 is the best. 0 is the worst.
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Average of 27 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Moosejaw$22.36
Active Price. This retailer has changed the price for this product in the past. Click here for full details.Free Shipping available if you spend more than $50.
black diamond atc-guide belay device - black diamond
Average of 3 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Mountain High Outfitters$25.95
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Average of 1 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Backcountry Gear$27.95
Average of 2 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Amazon.com$27.95
Active Price. This retailer has changed the price for this product in the past. Click here for full details.
Sizes:
Average of 12 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Backcountry$27.95
Active Price. This retailer has changed the price for this product in the past. Click here for full details.Free Shipping available if you spend more than $50.
Average of 1 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Rock Creek$27.95
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Average of 7 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. Mountain Gear$27.95
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Average of 3 shopper's experiences: exceptional. Click here to read or add reviews. US Outdoor Store$27.95
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black diamond atc-guide belay device
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black diamond equipment black diamond atc guide belay device
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black diamond atc-guide belay - s09
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Add Review
Average Review: 4.9

Cred: 8094
Review by marks on Mar. 31, 2007

Good Features
 This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso

Cred: 1404
Review by Keese on Nov. 07, 2007

Good Features
 Autoblocking, much easier lowering of an autoblocked second than the Reverso, wider selection of rope sizes than the Reverso, non rigid cable, teeth for improved gripping
Bad Features
 umm ???? doesnt come in the color green?
Recommended Alternatives
 BUY THIS ONE!

Cred: 555
Review by rmcgibbo on Aug. 03, 2008

Good Features
 Really beefy construction. The release hole is big enough to get a small biner in to use as a handle. Cheeper than the new reverso. Won't sharpen up like the old reverse.
Bad Features
 A little heavy, but I don't really count grams on belay devices - it's not like you're carying 50 as you are with biners.

On my 10.5 it's a little hard to feed when belaying the 2nd, but on my friend's 10.2 it's a lot better.
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso

Cred: 2382
Review by livextreme41 on Dec. 17, 2008

Good Features
 dual friction and autoblocking. works great. Does what it's supposed to do and does it well.
Bad Features
 weight...it's a bit heavy, and holds quite a bit of heat if you are on long rappels. Works best with larger diameter ropes
Recommended Alternatives
 reverso 3

Cred: 58
Review by fb_29707558 on Jan. 21, 2008

Good Features
 Best belay device for multi pitch climbing period. More size range on acceptable ropes than the petzl reverso, and it also has a nifty hole to attach some cord for lowering a second in the need should arise.

Cred: 384
Review by checkpositive001 on Nov. 06, 2008

Good Features
 More solid than the original reverso, because it is one continuous piece of metal. Doesn't form any sharp edges with wear like the old reverso can.
Hands-free direct anchor belay is very convenient.
Bad Features
 Sometimes hard to pull larger diameter ropes through on direct anchor belays.
A smidgen on the heavy side, but it'll last a long time.
Recommended Alternatives
 regular ATC
petzl grigri

Cred: 552
Review by jonnymtman on Mar. 10, 2009

Good Features
 I wish I hadn't bought all the other belay devices I have sitting in my basement. My favorite piece of equipment and always with me.
Bad Features
 could be lighter and gets hot on long abzeil

Cred: 202
Review by scottydo on Sep. 02, 2008

Good Features
 Just got this but it seems super solid and very handy
Bad Features
 A little on the heavy side compared to the regular ATC

Cred: 8
Review by jimmyw on Nov. 16, 2007

Good Features
 Very smooth, the teeth work great for heavier climbers.
Bad Features
 Too much grip when trying to rap
Recommended Alternatives
 Normal Atc or figure 8 for raps but for belays you cant beat it

Cred: 95
Review by fb_722631787 on Feb. 06, 2008

Good Features
 Very easy to use. Allows a second to be belayed off the anchor and the added small hole allows you to unlock the second once weight is added.
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso

Cred: 120
Review by stevendo on Dec. 02, 2008

Good Features
 solid design, friction mode delivers-
Bad Features
 none except i can't use this at my local gym b/c the ropes generally are too thick there-
Recommended Alternatives
 have only used for belaying-

Cred: 30
Review by cscolt on Mar. 18, 2008

Good Features
 Auto-block mode and Great friction. This bad boy is a great addition as a main belay device, and its tough as nails.
Bad Features
 Too heavy for use as a backup,
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso, Camp Ovo belay plate, Munter hitch.

Cred: 38
Review by fb_555560325 on Mar. 21, 2008

Good Features
 Best device I've ever used.
Great grip.
Reverses for the smoothest rappel ever!
Solid construction.

Cred: 36
Review by fb_737207491 on May. 30, 2008

Good Features
 Versatile e.g double rope use, adjustable use according to rope thickness and slickness.
Bad Features
 I've never used the guide function, so no functional addition for me.

Cred: 27
Review by clheslin@sbcglobal.net on Jan. 13, 2009

Good Features
 Smooth operation and easily belays a second in autoblock mode. Good friction for belaying a leader as well.
Bad Features
 It's sort of heavy.
Recommended Alternatives
 None, the reverso3 is a hair lighter but I've never used it to compare.

Cred: 9
Review by addictedclimber on Apr. 29, 2009

Good Features
 Excellent friction on the grooved side. Great for hanging belays and multi-pitch climbing.
Bad Features
 N/A
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso

Cred: 5
Review by K2sjb1 on Oct. 24, 2007

Good Features
 I have been climbing for over two decades. I have used many, many belay devices from multiple manufacturers. This is my favorite so far because of the versitality and the auto lock off feature.
Bad Features
 The only bad thing so far is that large assault type ropes will not work with this device.

Cred: 376
Review by eddiemack on Sep. 23, 2008

Good Features
 Great for simul climbing or all around ATC. Works the rope nicely. Gets a good grip when needed.
Bad Features
 none
Recommended Alternatives
 I also like the Trango Cinch, but the guide is a standard piece.

Cred: 42
Review by fb_38400292 on Jan. 21, 2008

Good Features
 great multi-use belay devise
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl reverso, but the guide is better

Cred: 60
Review by Jon Cannon on Aug. 13, 2008

Good Features
 Guide belay setting is awesome
Bad Features
 Funky to figure out at first.

Cred: 163
Review by climbandkayak on May. 11, 2008

Good Features
 Versatile, especially if you'll ever belay from above.

Cred: 93
Review by climbercam on Feb. 20, 2008

Good Features
 Auto-block, smooth belaying and easy catching, even with small mm ropes.
Bad Features
 None.
Recommended Alternatives
 None.

Cred: 48
Review by jciccotti on Feb. 26, 2008

Good Features
 the loops on either side to make belaying off the rappel easier.

Cred: 91
Review by fb_12711439 on Mar. 21, 2008

Good Features
 awesome versatility for slow or fast raps, anchor loop is very helpful

Cred: 73
Review by forsakenclimber on Apr. 28, 2008

Good Features
 Makes multi pitch belaying easy as pie
Bad Features
 Hard to give slack.

Cred: 102
Review by Delta V on Sep. 25, 2008

Good Features
 Awesome for twins, doubles and belaying 2 clients at the same time

Cred: 110
Review by chris.cohoon@cadence.org on Jul. 29, 2009

Good Features
 Great design, versatile, dissipates heat well
Recommended Alternatives
 BD ATC, Petzl Reverso

Cred: 12
Review by fb_504763858 on Feb. 11, 2008

Good Features
 Get your reverso out of my atc, get your atc out of my reverso

Cred: 22
Review by fb_73201981 on Feb. 28, 2008

Good Features
 great for multi uses. can be set up as an autolocker if you know how
Bad Features
 heavy

Cred: 36
Review by wild country on Mar. 23, 2008

Good Features
 quite usefull and does well on any rope climb and diameter

Cred: 12
Review by wrongfloor on Apr. 08, 2008

Good Features
 auto-blocking for multi-pitch
high & low friction
Bad Features
 heavy

Cred: 24
Review by dvsbenz on Apr. 10, 2008

Good Features
 high friction and low friction side. loop for belaying from the top
Bad Features
 none

Cred: 28
Review by fb_34320665 on May. 22, 2008

Good Features
 Two friction settings and multiple applications.
Bad Features
 A bit heavier than the ATC.

Cred: 27
Review by devin on Oct. 28, 2008

Good Features
 Autoblock is useful but I find it a bit clumsy.
Recommended Alternatives
 Reverso 3

Cred: 18
Review by climberboy123 on Mar. 23, 2009

Good Features
 Easy feeding, great breaking with the V-grooves, can be used as auto-block

Cred: 147
Review by fb_829070088 on Feb. 06, 2008

Good Features
 Good on softer ropes

Cred: 169
Review by skillet on Sep. 04, 2008

Good Features
 best of the bunch! 'nuff said!

Cred: 44
Review by fb_1568880112 on Jan. 23, 2008

Good Features
 great belay device, autoblock mode
Bad Features
 a touch heavy

Cred: 62
Review by fb_894465643 on Apr. 02, 2008

Good Features
 I like the ability to belay the second.

Cred: 49
Review by fb_598762461 on Apr. 19, 2008

Good Features
 Love the extra ring.

Cred: 63
Review by thissilentdream on Apr. 24, 2008

Good Features
 really really cool!

Cred: 43
Review by fb_5216704 on Jun. 13, 2008

Good Features
 Breaks like no other

Cred: 25
Review by ethatch on Jan. 18, 2008

Good Features
 incredible
Recommended Alternatives
 revirso...just kidding they suck

Cred: 22
Review by fb_717530056 on Feb. 14, 2008

Good Features
 High friction mode

Cred: 17
Review by Rico Suave on Mar. 20, 2008

Good Features
 super crazy awesome

Cred: 25
Review by fb_10732529 on Apr. 02, 2008

Good Features
 Great all-around belay device

Cred: 32
Review by fb_1068828154 on Apr. 15, 2008

Good Features
 The best belay device I've ever used

Cred: 26
Review by Kirill Zemlyanskiy on Jul. 19, 2008

Good Features
 light, handles easily
Recommended Alternatives
 Petzl Reverso 3.

Cred: 27
Review by DRoth on Jul. 27, 2008

Bad Features
 Havent Found any yet

Cred: 6
Review by fb_562035226 on Jan. 18, 2008

Good Features
 works good

Cred: 67
Review by shoesbasecamp on Feb. 11, 2008

Good Features
 awesome

Cred: 12
Review by wolfen_at_max on Jun. 13, 2008

Good Features
 Extra loop

Cred: 0
Review by raymeister on Jul. 28, 2008

Good Features
 autolock mode

Cred: 84
Review by San Dog Scotty on Aug. 15, 2008

Good Features
 Just got this.

Cred: 5
Review by shawd01 on Sep. 25, 2008

Good Features
 the best

Cred: 11
Review by fb_17815208 on Apr. 07, 2008

Good Features
 .

Cred: 6
Review by Reed P on Jul. 11, 2008

Recommended Alternatives
 .

Cred: 0
Review by psecody on May. 22, 2008

Good Features
 ...
Image
NameATC Guide
BrandBlack Diamond
Lowest Price22.49
TypeAuto Blocking
Weight (g)102
Rope Size Min (mm)7.7
Rope Size Max (mm)11
Dual Rope RappelsYes
Dual FrictionYes

From US Outdoor Store:
Description of Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device
One device to do it all, the ATC-Guide offers maximum versatility. It has a smooth, regular friction side and, for twice the friction, a grooved side. When youre belaying from above, the “guide mode” lets you bring up one or two seconding climbers with ease and control. For lowering, it has a small secondary hole that you can girth hitch for more leverage to release the device.
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From Backcountry:
The self-locking capability of the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device makes it an excellent choice when you cast off on multi-pitch trad, ice, and alpine climbs. The ATC Guide—winner of the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award—belays a leader just like any other tube-style device, but it can also be connected directly to your anchor to create a self-locking system when you're belaying one or two following climbers. This allows you to eat, drink, tie your shoes, and take pictures as you belay with confidence that your partners are completely safe. Its unique release point lets you lower a following climber when the ATC Guide is in self-locking mode, even if he's way heavier than you. The aggressive V-notch allows this belay device to work on ropes from 7.7 to 11mm—even when they're icy.
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From Mountain Gear:
The ATC Guide by Black Diamond is a full-function belay and rappel device with two friction options (regular or high friction) and a guide mode belays and lowers one or two seconding climbers.
Features:
  • The dual-friction capabilities regulate the speed of your rappel or lower
  • A full-strength anchor clip-in point is large enough to clear most locking-carabiner sleeves
  • Small seconday hole for lowering lets you girth hitch a sling or thread a microstopper for more leverage
  • Compatible with all climbing ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm

Specifications:
  • Weight: 3.6 ounces
  • Material: Aluminum
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From Rock Creek:
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a full function belay device with dual frictions belay and rappel modes and a Guide Mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls, plus you can lower a climber regardless of weight difference between climber and belayer, because of a unique release point built in to the unit.
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Image
NameATC GuideReversino Belay DeviceReverso Belay Device
BrandBlack DiamondPetzlPetzl
Lowest Price22.36223.9522.95
TypeAuto BlockingAuto BlockingAuto Blocking
Weight (g)1025780
Rope Size Min (mm)7.77.58
Rope Size Max (mm)118.211
Dual Rope RappelsYesYesYes
Dual FrictionYesYesYes

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