stanhope2003
 | Posted: January 2nd, 2010 Edited: January 2nd, 2010 | Quote, Reply |
I wanted to ask everyone what their suggestions are for how to navigate in a whiteout above treeline? I'm still learning and this to me is a necessary skill to learn to be safe. I never would intentionally climb in poor weather.
I have taken a mountaineering course offered by EMS and a guided climb on Mt Rainier. Both were great. But both were more focused with leaving the paying climber being more spoon fed and having fun and less about learning. The basics were taught but in terms of avalanche safety, rope tying, and winter navigation were all skimmed over. Not to mention that many mountaineering courses are extremely expensive. I have read many books but I wanted to get other peoples opinion on how they learned these necessary winter mountaineering skills.
I climb primarily in NH but want to expand to climb more out West. One of the biggest questions I have is what do people suggest for navigating in a white out? Hunker down? Make a snow cave? Pull out a bivy sack? A Bothy bag? Map and Compass to navigate down? Is a map and compass practical to use in high wind and white out conditions? What about GPS Units to navigate down?
I consider my mountaineering to be primarlily single day climbs, especially in New England. Maybe multi-day out West though. In addition I always check the weather before going out. As well as check into a Ranger station to inquire about conditions and weather.
Thank you.
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JazzaRazza
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Can't say I have too much experience to offer here but I can say that I've used GPS in whiteout conditions to get back to basecamp before. You'll have to frequently check your bearings on a compass.. Lots of people dont like to depend on "technology" but hey if it works and you have it, theres no reason not to pull the thing out and follow your line back to camp. Bringing extra batteries isn't neccessarily an insurance policy either but should be a must.
If you're doing glacier travel and there are known cravasses present you'll be facing a risk there with limited visibility... In which case the bivy might be a nice alternative if you are soloing or don't have rope.
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brettbrown
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I spoke with a climbing ranger on Rainier. He highly recommended a GPS.
Here is what you do. You turn it on every once in a while or when you make a change in direction and mark your waypoint. Then turn it off. On your return trip, you turn it on and get a bearing on your next waypoint (that was taken on the way up). Then you turn it off and use your compass to follow the heading. You need to sight an object to do this. In a whiteout, you are forced to keep the unit turned on to follow the heading because you are unable to sight an object. This still will not keep you out of a cravase. Common sence is still needed. You may not be able to travel if the route has hazards.
On a different note, I was looking to take an avy course in NH with chauvin guides. Have you used them before?
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stanhope2003
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Hey,
I will look into the GPS. Might hold off until next season since they are so expensive and stick w/the map and compass. I have not used Chauvin Guides. I want to take an AIARE I Course but they are so expensive. EMS is offering the course 3 days for $300, $100 a day seems a little expensive. I just can't get past how expensive it is to 'learn' these skills that are potentially life saving. It seems a little ridiculous to me that they are so pricey. Don't get me wrong I understand guides and companys need to make money but for someone just getting into it, it seems like a big price to pay. Then AIARE II is $400. So $700 to learn Avalanche safety not including transportation there, food, or lodging.
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brettbrown
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I'm taking the Backcountry Avalanche Awareness course. It is two days. It seems that skiing is required for all the other courses. I don't ski and don't plan on learning anytime soon. When it's cold enough to snow then it's cold enough to make ice. I'm not giving up ice climbing time to ski. Besides, you can get hurt skiing.
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stanhope2003
| Posted: January 10th, 2010 Edited: January 10th, 2010 | Quote, Reply |
Brett,
Thanks for the info for the course I just looked it up I think I might take it too. $225 seems reasonable. Possibly Feb 6,7 if that works out. Not sure if late Feb. will work. I didn't know for other courses skiing was a major component. I'm not a great skier and would like to avoid it as well. Thanks again
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