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Self Belay

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pespahr
Posted: February 1st, 2010
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What is the best and or safest device to use on a self belay set up?

jonnymtman
Cred: 4460
Posted: February 1st, 2010
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What kind of climbing do you want to do?

pespahr
Posted: February 1st, 2010
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Just want something to use for top rope

justinadmin
Cred: 2347
Posted: February 1st, 2010
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For shorter climbs, I use a cinch (particularly in the gym), but if you get into really long routes, I'd go for a mini traxion.

Trango Cinch
$66.67 - 85.95


Petzl Mini Traxion
$61.16 - 84.97


The cinch will go both up and down, but you have to pull slack through by hand. The mini Traxion will allow the rope to pull through on its own, but you'll want to have some prussik loops to transfer yourself over for rappel.

JL

jonnymtman
Cred: 4460
Posted: February 3rd, 2010
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I learned to self belay from a bunch of old Germans. Run a single rope strand down the face with a weight (like your backpack) tied about 1meter off the ground then climb with some sort of assender. I prefer the petzl shunt because of the spring action and smooth cam. The crol, traxion and others have conical teeth that fray the rope sheath even while progressing up and can really tear into the rope on a fall (if there is excess slack). Be super careful and go where you know you can easily get help when you are out sans partner.

Petzl Shunt
$51.96 - 69.95


702climber
Posted: November 19th, 2010
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I self belay on top rope often. I use the Petzle Shunt or Ushba Basic Asender. Neither have rope damaging teeth. The Shunt can be used on single or double strand. While the Ushba works single strand, I often use two Ushbas for more secure double strand climbing if rope length allows. Use a double loop knot to attach to rope anchor to reduce rope fatige at master point and protect rope from potentially sharp rock edges.

jputprush
Posted: January 27th, 2011
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Petzl mini traxion will do the job never had a problem with it.

jeepnphreak
Cred: 1096
Posted: January 27th, 2011
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All though the ones listed above will work..
I have used a petzl shunt and a gri gri before, and they do just fine.

the ones that are truly meant be used for soloing are here

spadout.com/c/rope-soloing-belay-devices/

stephen
Cred: 1250
Posted: April 4th, 2011
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personally, i use an us an ushba ascender and it works great!
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