Anonymous
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How do these perform in iced up cracks on alpine routes?
I know you have to scrap out the ice, but I'm interested in your opinion and thoughts.
Thanks!
Mick
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marks
 | Posted: April 10th, 2010 Edited: April 10th, 2010 | Quote, Reply |
Hey Mick,
TCUs are best for narrow placements where a 4 lobed cam wouldn't fit into the placement.
Honestly though if you have any loose rock or ice, cams are far from guaranteed to hold no matter what brand you are using. Typically you'll want to find solid rock or solid ice (and use an ice screw) or just pick another climb imo. It's just too risky. What are you considering climbing?
With this said, offsets will perform better than most cams in pin scars which can be common on classic alpine routes.
Have a great one,
Mark
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Anonymous
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for the quick response! I understand and agree, best to find solid rock... (or use a screw). I know you have to scrape away as much ice as possible. Probably bring a wider variety of Hex's that I initially planned.
As far as what I'm considering to climb, nothing specific right now. I want to do some alpine routes next season up in Canmore area. I'd like to do the Triple Coulour on Dragontail Peak; or Mt. Index off Hwy. 2 looks good.
I live in North Idaho where are you located?
Thanks for the feedback, take care and stay save in the mountains,
Mick
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