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Q: Enchated Rock Trad Rack for 5.10s and under

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bmv234
Posted: December 1st, 2009
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Hi I've been climbing for several months now and am now moving on to trad climbing (have done some but am now building my own trad rack). What size nuts and cams would you suggest for 5.10 and under crack climbing at enchanted rock? I've had one person tell me mainly sizes #.75-3 in BD cams with doubles and triples of each. Any suggestions?

justinadmin
Cred: 2347
Posted: December 2nd, 2009
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When starting out, it's usually best to haul more gear than you think you'll need. C4s through #3 is a good place to start, but keep in mind that you can carry 2-3 small cams for the same weight as a Med/Large one. and you can carry 2 nuts for the weight of a small cam. (it also doesn't hurt that a full set of nuts is the same price as a large cam). If I had to chose, I'd hold off on the #3 (wide hands to fists) and get the .5 and .3.
My favorite sizes are the #2 (perfect hands) and the .5 and .75 (fingers). Usually the popular routes have those sizes because they are the most fun to climb. Then round out your rack with 1-2 sets of nuts #3-11 (BD sizes)

As you get more confident in your placements and learn to conserve gear, you'll be able to shrink your rack a bit.

Triples are probably overkill unless you have your eyes on a route that is notoriously one sized. Large gear is reserved for specific routes because it's such a hastle to haul up a route to place it once. There are a number of wide routes at enchanted rock, but your topo will warn you before you rack up.

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