ice climbing gear questions | |
chadcummings
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My names chad and im a climber from north texas. i went to ouray in 08, couldnt make it this year but i am going in 2010.
i need some suggestions.
i own petzl quarks
arc'terx sidewinder sv jacket
north face bionic jacket
mountain hardwear light weight fleece
BD sabertooth crampon
la sportiva trango ice ev boots
la sportiva mega ice fruitboots
i'm going up for a week or two. mostly to ice climb and drytool but i/ll sneak off to snowboard alittle.
last time i just wore my snowboard pant but theyre to baggy. i guess i;m asking for pant and layer suggestions, also if i should look at getting other cloths than what i already have, what ice screw sizes i would need first( doubt i'll be leading), and if i dry tool should i consider getting the nomics or something of the like. thanks in advance.
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climbhigher
 | Posted: March 11th, 2009 Edited: March 11th, 2009 | Quote, Reply |
Hey Chad,
Don't worry about getting new axes, if it's only for a week. You will want to make sure that you have hammers on both your axes though. Make sure you have spare picks as well.
If your looking to get some general length screws, 16cm length is pretty useful. Make sure you get screws with good handles.
I would recommend the Arcteryx Alpha LT Pant.
.
If you don't already have a pair of gaiters make sure you get some. No matter how tough your pants are, the crampons win.
Have a good one,
Matt
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chadcummings
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Hey matt,
yeah i got two pairs of gatiers, crampons still won against my burton pants during a fall. say i do get those alpha lt's. what kind of layering do you do with those hardshell pants?
i'll try to talk myself out of them but the gear whore in me kind of wants to get a dry tool set. i got a place or two where i live i can play around on them. what would you suggest? alot of people i met in ouray swear by the nomics. thats why they;re my first thought
cheers
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jonnymtman
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Hi Chad, I too would not spend money on new tools since you live in TX and climb infrequently. But money isn't a big problem for you judging by your kit. Go for the nomics but the BD Fusion has an adjustable grip that I like.
Get a pair of better fitting soft shell pants like the REI Acme, Mountain Hardwear Makalu, Syncro or TNF Apex Elixer.
As far as layers go i only wear 3/4 long underwear with ski socks that pad your shins. This keeps your long johns from bunching into your boots.
Starting a rack of screws first fill it with 16cm BD expresses. Get a 22cm if you want to build v-threads. You won't need shorter ones until you are running up thin sick routs. Get 2 BD ice clippers or Petzl caritool depending on your harness; they make racking screws easy instead of painful.
Hope this helps, say high to Ouray for me when you get back.
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chadcummings
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thanks for the advice jonny
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stanhope2003
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Chad,
This is probably a yr too late but figured I'd throw in my suggestion for layering. I have found a lot of mainstream pants/layers are ok. In particular Patagonia Guide and Mountain Hardwear are both great companies w/great products. However, my suggestion for layering would be to check out a NH store called Wild Things. http://www.wildthingsgear.com/ They also just added an Outlet store which is great. I would suggest the Powerstretch Hoody and Power Stretch Tights. Both will be great for ice climbing. And for Pants I'd suggest the Softshell Pants from the main site Mountain Guide Pants. It's a great small local company and great people to buy from.
Dave
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