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Grand Teton solo

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brettbrown
Cred: 514
Posted: May 23rd, 2010
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I'm looking for info on climbing the Grand Teton. Living on the east coast makes it hard to find a partner for a climb like this so I most likely will be climbing solo. I'm looking to climb the Owen-Spalding route or the Exum Ridge. Although both climbs are well within my ability, I was wondering how exposed these climbs really are. The highest I have ever free soloed was an ice climb (WI 3) 120' up with another 300' of "rag-dolling" down a 70 degree slope. The idea of someone above me dropping rocks, etc makes it even hairier. Would self belaying with a soloist on the more exposed stuff be out of the question?

I do plan on carrying a 60m rope and some gear in case I need to bail for weather conditions or if I wind up off route, etc.

Anyone here climbed or soloed these routes before?

eriklambert
Posted: May 24th, 2010
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Hi Brett. The climbing on both routes is very mellow but quite exposed. A rope is mandatory for descending unless you're also comfortable down soloing the O-S. In the summer months, you'd have a good chance of finding a partner at the AAC's Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch.

marks
Cred: 40569
Posted: May 24th, 2010
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From my memory (correct me if I'm wrong here Eric) doesn't it require two 60s to get off the main rappel (presuming your not down climbing)?


eriklambert
Posted: May 24th, 2010
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A 60m won't cut it for the standard rappel. However, to climber's right, there is a rap station that--with a 60m--will get you down to a second rappel and the saddle.

brettbrown
Cred: 514
Posted: May 28th, 2010
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Thanks guys

abelrevenge
Posted: July 1st, 2010
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The O.S. didn't melt out until late august last year and conditions seem similar this year. I would inquire locally before climbing this route.

brettbrown
Cred: 514
Posted: July 3rd, 2010
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Thanks for the info. I guess the best place to get a report is by calling the ranger station.

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