Chain maintenance is all about experimentation, especially when it comes to lubrication. There are no hard and fast rules about what keeps a bicycle chain hummin’. Like most things in life, it comes down to balance. Too little and you’ve got friction and corrosion. Too much and you’re a magnet for dirt and grime.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to chain lube: wet and dry. The first method is straightforward; it goes on wet and never dries. Although it suits a variety of conditions and riders, its major downfall is that it attracts dirt. The second option is just the opposite; it goes on wet, does its thing, and then dries, keeping the dirt at bay.

The concept behind dry lube is a bit more complex than wet lube. For instance, dry lube products are comprised of a lubricant and a ‘carrier.’ When the mixture is applied, the ‘carrier’ evaporates while the lubricant infiltrates the inner workings of the chain. Lubricants in these emulsions are usually made of wax or teflon while the ‘carriers’ are usually solvents. A few more environmentally friendly products use water as the ‘carrier.’ Beyond the ability to repel dirt, though, dry lubes are notorious for short life spans leading to dry, squeaky chains.

One type of ‘dry’ lube is wax. Yes, this naturally oily, pliable liquid substance is a viable lubricant for a bicycle chain. Some disciples swear by it, while others condemn it like the plague. Historically, the traditional method requires both time in the kitchen and the garage. Picture Julia Childs wearing a blue Park Tools apron …

The Traditional Wax Method

Supplies: Paraffin wax (about a large candle size worth), 2 qt. cooking pot, 1 lb. coffee can, bicycle chain

Instructions:

1. Remove chain from bike. It helps to have a chain with a master link. If not, use a chain tool.
2. Fill the cooking pot about a third full of water and bring to a boil.
3. Break up wax, put the bits into the coffee can, put the can in the pot with the boiling water.
4. While wax is melting, clean chain thoroughly. Use degreaser and a wire brush.
5. Put the clean chain into the can after the wax has melted. Important note: a 1 lb. coffee can works best. A regular-sized 15 oz. can is too small.
6. Turn down heat; the wax should stay melted without the water boiling. Let the chain soak until no more bubbles rise (this is air escaping from the links).
7. Remove chain from wax (carefully!) with tongs or screwdriver and wipe down with a rag.
8. Hang dry.
9. Re-install chain on bike.
10. Go ride.

Given the level of effort required, this routine is probably for the type of cyclist who reads Sheldon Brown’s website for fun. If you’re like me, you would prefer to avoid steps 1-9 and go straight to 10.
Fortunately, the Julia Childs method is available in a bottle, and because of that, I am a recent convert to wax-based lube.

My reasons for avoiding dry lube weren’t based on actual experience, just word of mouth. Too many times I had heard the phrases ‘gummed up,’ ‘doesn’t last,’ and ‘squeaky.’ I hate squeaky. A good friend, and passionate wax-based lube user, convinced me to try it and walked me through the process:

1. Clean chain like usual (for the first application, clean thoroughly with degreaser; for subsequent cleanings, use soap and water).
2. Apply lube liberally, don’t wipe excess.
3. Let chain dry.
4. Go ride.

A couple of weeks passed, with a lot of miles ridden. To my surprise, there was no build up, no grime, and no squeaking. I continued to use the product for the rest of the summer and then through winter. Wax lube and cold temperatures usually stiffen the chain so my doubts surfaced again as the leaves changed and the mercury dropped. Surprisingly, I found that as long as I applied the lube in the warmth of the garage, the product performed just as well as it had throughout the warmer seasons. After several months of riding, I realized I spent far less time cleaning the bike without sacrificing wear and tear on the components.

Chain maintenance is not an exact science. Where you live, what you ride, and how much time you dedicate to cleaning your bike are all factors that play a role. If you’re not religious about cleaning, then maybe a wax-based dry lube will suit you well. Whatever your technique may be, just don’t use WD-40.

Stay tuned for when Leslie tackles the oily, greasy topic of wet chain lube later this month.

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