Have you ever thought about the perfect threesome? Long lonely drives may find your mind wandering to such a prospect. Yet folks are nervous about the potential for relationships unraveling into hurt feelings and chaos. But as long as your normal alpine partner won't get jealous, inviting a third along on your next route can make the entire process easier, safer, and more fun. You did know I was talking about mountain climbing, right?

There are several advantages to having three climbers on a team, even for routes which are primarily on rock.

• Each climber leads fewer pitches, with less (or no) extra weight.
• Group gear and camp tasks are more spread out.
• Belaying is easier.
• Glacier travel and rescue scenarios are safer.
• You'll get much better photographs.

Disadvantages still exist, yet many are mitigated through specific techniques and technologies. Climbing with three can result in increased rock and ice fall, pitches are slower, and the coveted 'middle-spot' at unplanned shiver bivies can be fiercely contested. But if your team utilizes the following methods for belaying, climbing, and descending, then the ideal threesome can become a reality.

The Climb
Climbing with three should mean leading with half or twin ropes (the PMI Verglass is conveniently certified for both uses) and belaying both followers as they climb simultaneously on one rope each.  This requires an auto-blocking belay device to hang from the anchor, such as the Petzl Reverso 3 or Black Diamond ATC-Guide. The slower of the two followers should climb first, leaving protection clipped to the second follower's rope, preventing a swinging fall. The second (faster) of the two followers removes the gear, sorting equipment and staying at least 15-feet behind the first follower. Upon reaching the belay, the first follower begins sorting ropes, while the second follower hands the organized rack to the leader.

The Belay
Either of the two followers can belay the leader, while the non-belayer does everything else. The most important task for the non-belayer is to prevent the ropes from causing problems. Climbing with two thin ropes results in kinked and coiled cordage piled at the belay. And as the followers climb at different rates, the rope is seldom stacked neatly for the next pitch. Send the leader off immediately, and let the non-belayer clean up the mess. Other duties for this person can include taking photos and providing food and clothing to the belayer.

Because changing the leader results in wasted time, teams should minimize transitions with block-leading. Climbing in three long blocks, planned to emphasize the strength of each leader, will result in only two lead change-overs on route. After leading the final pitch of your block, untie from the one rope which is not already attached to the next leader. When the new leader reaches the belay, they should leave their existing knot in place and tie into this loose end. The new leader is now tied into both strands and each follower still has one each. To be extra smooth, have the new leader clean gear from this pitch, so they'll reach the belay with most of the rack with them. Sort and stack ropes after the switchover, or the new leader's rope will be buried on the bottom of the pile.

The Descent
Rappelling with three people is where teams often waste a lot of time. The following method for three-person rappels is both safer than traditional simul-rapping and faster than individual rappels. After evenly threading the rope(s) through the anchor, have one climber clip both rope strands through both slots of their belay device,  but remain in place at the anchor. The other two climbers then each grab a single strand of rope, below this point, and rappel simultaneously on one line each. The first climber remains in place, their belay device effectively locking-off the two strands into independent ropes. Unlike with traditional simul-rappelling, your safety and descent speed remains solely in your hands. When the two simul-rappellers have reached the next anchor, the third climber is pre-rigged and ready to descend.

Through the use of these techniques, and a modern rope/belay-device system, your threesome will be up and down routes faster than you would have imagined. Even better, you'll be dispatching climbs with less work and lighter backpacks for all. And with two other climbers to lead the way, folks like me never again have just one option when debating the ultimate question: How can I talk my way out of leading the crux?

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