Whoever claims that tape gloves are cheating is either A) a proficient crack climber who’s already paid his dues, or B) a masochist. Whether learning how to jam cracks or cruising 5.13 testpieces, tape gloves will prevent the back of your hands from turning into hamburger. Not only will this help you avoid needless suffering, it will allow you to climb exponentially more than the haughty non-taper who is sidelined by shredded skin. Quibbles aside, nearly every crack climber will tape up at some point, so here’s how to make the best tape glove ever:

Three pieces of equipment are required: two rolls of 1½-inch wide Curity-Kendall athletic tape and one can of Mueller Pre-Tape Spray (or equivalent pre-tape adhesive).

1. Generously coat the back of one hand with Mueller Pre-Tape Spray. Let dry for 20 seconds.


2. Tear a four or five-inch strip of 1½-inch tape – enough to cover the complete width of the back of your hand. Make a fist, and then place this first strip across the top of your hand, high enough to cover your knuckles. Place the second strip below and overlapping the first by half an inch. Proceed this way (with slightly shortening strips) until just below your wrist. You should place four or five strips total.


3. From the second roll of tape, tear a half-inch strip (from the width) about 10 inches long (customize to your hand and finger size). Extend your fingers so your palm faces the ground. Attach one end of the strip to the base of your wrist on the back of your hand and bring it between your index and middle fingers. Wrap it around the base of your index finger, make a fist, then finish by crossing over itself on the back of your hand and attach the other end at the starting point on your wrist. *All attachment points are on the back of the hand because it’s the most comfortable and least interfering spot.


4. Do the same to your middle finger.


5. *This next step is very important because it prevents the ubiquitous (and fearsome) “thin-hands tape edge roll” that stymies (and bloodies) most tape glove wearers. Coat the pinky side of your hand from your wrist to the base of your pinky with pre-tape adhesive. Let dry for 20 seconds. Extend your fingers with your palm facing up. Begin this final half-inch-wide strip at the wrist below your pinky. Bring the strip up the side of your hand covering the irregular ends of the original 1½-inch strips, leaving one clean vertical edge of tape. Continue the strip around your pinky to the right, then between your pinky and ring finger, and finally crossing itself and angling down across the back of your hand, attaching again at your wrist.


6. Next, spray the web of your thumb with pre-tape adhesive. Let dry for 20 seconds. Then take a 12-inch strip of 1½-inch tape and attach it at the base of your thumb so it can run parallel to your index finger. Bring the strip between your thumb and index finger, and wrap it around your entire thumb before attaching it at the back of your wrist.


7. Finally, attach the full strip (still attached to the roll) on the back of your hand at the wrist, aiming (again) between thumb and index finger. Tape all the way around your thumb and attach at the back of your wrist. Finish by wrapping the tape loosely around your entire wrist twice, and attach at the back of your wrist.

With experience you’ll learn to tweak the glove to your personal taste and for the specific crack sizes you’ll be climbing. When I redpointed Colorado’s Sphinx Crack (5.13b) for example, I used fewer horizontal strips (step 2) in order to squeeze into the thin-hands section a little easier, and I added a thin strip around my ring finger (step 3) for durability.

These gloves can usually be reused for at least one additional climbing day if taken off with care (cut the wrist tape with scissors and peel off carefully). On one trip to Canada’s Bugaboos I milked 35-40 pitches over two climbing days with the same pair of gloves, and they were nearly as good on day two. If reusing, be sure to patch worn sections (on the inside of the glove) and apply copious spray.

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