Bicycle pumps are positive displacement pumps. This means you engage a piston that draws air into the pump from the outside (on the up pull) and pushes that air into the tire (on the press down). It’s a pretty simple design, but there are failure points, and not all pumps are created equal. I consulted with Dillon Clapp over at Lezyne, to find out what his engineers recommend to look for in purchasing a tire pump.

First off, don’t reinvent the wheel. This is the era of sustainability so select a pump that’s easily rebuildable and check out what floor pumps the shop keeps on hand. Anything that can survive the rigors of a bike shop’s work area is sure to be durable.

Second, know your material; cheaper pumps use cheaper materials. Look for pumps that use a full steel or aluminum construction. Don’t be fooled by pumps with a nice metal base and shaft, but are held together with plastic hardware. A pump will ultimately only be as good as it’s hardware, and a well-put together pump will last longer. So check it out – is the pump held together with Elmer’s glue, or is it built with robust threaded connections?

Also keep in mind that a high-quality pump will be held to higher tolerances, meaning less pressure loss while pumping and a smoother stroke. So don’t be afraid to give the pump a whirl – fill up a high-volume tire and a high-pressure tire. The pump should feel smooth and sturdy as you inflate. And let’s be clear on aesthetics – looks are important. You don’t want a cheap looking department store pump in your garage surrounded by carbon fiber pieces of art. But at the same time, be aware of false flair – a clean, simplistic design is always preferable.

Third, look for a pump sporting a gauge with large lettering (you’ll have it way into your golden years) that’s located at the base of the pump. Gauges positioned toward the top make the pump top-heavy, and repeated impacts from tipping over can throw off the calibration (this means you shouldn’t chuck it into your trunk either). Speaking of the gauge, check that the max PSI is enough to accommodate your requirements, particularly if you’re using Euro-style road racing tires.

Fourth, hose quality is a no-brainer, but don’t overlook the hose’s connection to the pump. To ensure a reliable connection, make sure it’s not exposed, and that the hose isn’t subject to bending at the connection point. When not in use, hoses should store away simply and securely to prevent damage. Also, the longer the hose, the more versatile it will be (not to mention making inflating the tires while your bike is in a work stand much easier).

Fifth, consider the hose’s connection to the tire. There are many different types of valve connections: smart heads, dual heads, etc. Go for what works best in your garage. Some are quicker, some last longer, some are threaded (Lezyne pumps, for example, use an aluminum threaded connection), some are press-fit, some have a single hole, some two (one for presta, one for shrader). For the best performance, roadies that use only high-pressure tires and presta valves should avoid the one-hole connection that adapts to both presta and shrader, and just look for a presta-specific connection.

Last but not least, the shape matters. The diameter and length of the main shaft determines the pump’s efficiency: narrower will be easier to inflate to high pressure, wider will be quicker to inflate high volume. Also, the longer the pump, the less strokes will be required.

Speaking of high-volume vs. high-pressure tires, we’ll leave you with this floor pump tidbit: most will work well with either, but there is now a market for high-volume pumps that fill large volume mountain bike tires quicker. These bad boys will even seat tubeless setups because of the amount of air they can produce with one stroke! Good times.