Ice climbers and alpinists usually take great care of their crampons, ice tools, and hardware, but often neglect the needed care of their jackets. All modern waterproof clothing is constructed with some kind of fully waterproof membrane, bonded to the fabric. This might be something like GORE-TEX or eVent, used by many companies. It also might mean a company-specific material, such as Outdoor Research's Ventia, or Mountain Hardwear's Conduit.

This membrane will remain waterproof during your garment's life, but its breathability is largely determined by the saturation levels of the outermost material. In short, you need to maintain an effective layer of durable water repellent (DWR) on the exterior of your jacket, in order for water to bead up, rather than wet-out. Whether you're using GORE-TEX, eVent, or one of the proprietary water barriers, your outerwear simply will not breathe well if the exterior is saturated with precipitation. And when that occurs, prepare to have your new jacket's performance resemble that of a $3 plastic poncho.

For most outerwear, the best method to restore the DWR is to use McNett's Revivex, a formula that was developed by GORE itself. Nikwax and Granger's produce similar products, but both cost more – without superior results. These formulas use a variety of elastomers, modified mineral wax formulas, and fluorocarbon-based compounds to coat your jacket with a water-impermeable layer.

Just as with tacos, there are hard-shell and soft-shell recipes for renewing your DWR. With either, its important to immediately apply heat to your treated garment, usually with an hour in the dryer on the hottest allowable setting. Another trick is to use an iron, on low heat, and iron-in the DWR. This has the potential to damage material, but when used carefully on specific areas like the hood, will produce a more lasting coating. Just remember, without an immediate application of heat, the DWR will not bond to your outerwear.

When treating jackets, or areas of jackets, where breathability is not as important, you can handle the problem differently. Use a spray-on method (such as Scotchgard, or Kiwi Camp Dry) to shellack the exterior with a waterproof layer. This will eliminate the breathability of any material, so use it carefully! For ultralight windshirts (like Patagonia's Houdini) and belay parkas, I apply Scotchgard on the shoulders, hood, and sleeves. For me, it's less important that these areas of the garments breath well than it is for them to shed precipitation. These same silicone-based water repellents can also be applied to backpacks and the leashes of your ice tool, preventing both from becoming wet or icy.

Restoring the loft (and warmth) of your down jacket is equally as easy. Over time, the accumulation of dirt, sweat, and alpinist's sunscreen/DEET mixture impedes the loft ability of the down clumps. Use a dedicated down-washing detergent, and make sure not to overload the washing machine. Again, the best options are Revivex, and Nikwax for the outercare. The down will re-loft to its original volume if allowed to tumble dry in a large space.

When your partner is shivering, soaked, or complaining about their new jacket at the interminable last belay, suggest they invest a little time and effort into the care of their outwear. The results will speak for themselves and your partners will hush up.

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