Science has proven that A) humans aren’t meant to do what we climbers do with our bodies – like hang from fingernail-sized edges and one-finger pockets – and B) climbers are obsessive and don’t know when to quit. Take the survey of 284 injured climbers over a ten-year period, published in the 2003 book “One Move Too Many,” which found that 69-percent of climbers’ injuries were overuse syndromes (the remaining being acute injuries).

I’ve personally suffered my share of climbing injuries: a partially torn ligament and avulsion fracture in one finger, finger pulley tears, two torn menisci, and many nagging finger, elbow, and shoulder issues. But in 22 years of climbing I’ve never not climbed longer than eight weeks in a row (see revelation B above).

Injuries infect even the most careful climbers. They blight us anytime, anywhere, but usually (the devils!) when we’re at our motivational peak, training hard. Naturally, this peak occurs most often during the winter, post-New Year’s Resolutions and pre-spring “climbing season.” Right about now, in fact. So what can we do to stay injury-free while pushing ourselves indoors this season?

1) Warm up for 45-60 minutes. This is the single most important step, yet also the most easily overlooked.
Begin with at least ten minutes of light cardio to increase your heart rate and get your muscles hot. This can be done on a treadmill, stationary bike, or by jumping rope, to name a few methods. A good indicator that you’re warm enough to move on is when you start to sweat. Next, begin at least 25 minutes of very easy climbing (don’t get pumped) and light stretching. Intensify difficulty in the final 10-20 minutes of your warmup, using comfortable holds no smaller than two-pads deep.

2) Vary your training.
Variety mitigates repeated bodily stress of the same kind. If you normally train power, climb routes every third or fourth session. If you normally train endurance, hit the bouldering wall. Climb with new partners who have a different workout routine than you’re accustomed to. Be sure to train on all angles, using all hold types.

3)Minimize the closed-crimp hand position.
This is the strongest crimp position, but it also causes the most common injury in the aforementioned survey: finger pulley ruptures. It can also cause ligament tears on either side of the middle knuckle. In this position, most often used on one-pad and smaller edges, the first knuckles of the fingers are hyper-extended and enormous force is placed on the first and middle knuckles of each finger.

There’s nothing inherently wrong with closed crimping, but many climbers do this exclusively. The same climbers also tend to constantly battle injury. The best way to avoid finger injuries from crimping is to develop open-hand strength. In the open-hand position your hand is roughly in the shape of a “C” while holding an edge, i.e.: no knuckle hyper-extension. At first this position may feel very weak, but the more you open-hand, the faster you’ll develop strength.

To boost your open-hand strength, do three sets open-hand hangs on a one or two-pad edge (whatever size spits you off in 8-12 seconds) on a hangboard, three days a week. Decrease the size of the edge as you get stronger.

4)Minimize compromising moves.
Some moves are technically brilliant, but risky. Be very careful when doing moves like severe drop-knees and highsteps, which compromise the ACL and meniscus. Use caution on high and/or wide gaston moves, especially on steep walls. Gastons are infamous shoulder-wreckers. Finally, protect your tendons by thinking twice before pulling too hard on shallow one and two-finger pockets. And again, minimize closed crimping.

5)Strengthen opposing muscles.
Climbers typically have unbalanced muscle groups: beefy biceps, tiny triceps; rippling back, weak chest; Popeye front forearms, sinewy back forearms. These latter muscles – opposing muscles – are seldom used while climbing but necessary for muscle and joint stability. A good, basic start is a simple regimen of three sets of pushups, dips, and reverse forearm curls two or three times per week.

6)Rest and recover adequately between workouts.
Training causes micro-tears in muscles and tendons. You only get stronger by resting, which allows your body to recuperate and overcompensate (this is why you get stronger) from the trauma of a good workout. For a well-trained climber, 36 to 48 hours of rest is considered adequate recovery from a high intensity training session like bouldering, campusing, or heavy lifting. Endurance-oriented workouts like moderate roped climbing or easy bouldering traverses generally require less recovery time.

7)Listen to your body.
Everyone adapts to training differently. All of the above information is useless unless you pay close attention to how you feel. Heed your body’s advice before you make one move too many.

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